PRINT: Rock Climb White Trash, Smith Rock

White Trash

5.12a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 70 votes
FA: John Rich, Sept. 1988
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > W Side > (2) Wildfire Wall

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

For good reason, one of the most climbed 5.12 sport routes in the Lower Gorge. Continuously enjoyable and interesting moves in sustained, varied and technical terrain create this classic climb. The crux is about 2/3rds up.

Location

Wildfire Wall, west side of the Crooked River.
Starts on a block leaning against the wall and veers up and left.

Protection

Bolts with rap anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Vernon Stiefel

5.12a

This is one of many stupendous routes in the Lower Gorge pioneered by John Rich. He recently extended the route on overhanging jugs (10c - bolt protected) for a full value 100' pitch! Apr 5, 2006

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR

FWIW, the extension is in-credible! Definitely do it. Unlike anything else at the grade in the Park. May 5, 2013

Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO

The steep 5.10 extension up high is mandatory. So good! Sep 17, 2019

Aimee McRae
Bend

Amazing line. If you can get through the bottom, don't miss the extension. It's so much fun- overhanging jugs the whole way! Nov 9, 2019

Ethan Berkeland
Fairbanks, AK

5.12a

Had to come here and say how super ultra mega classic this thing is with the extension. So fun! Apr 21, 2021

Paul P
Bend

Very nice, I like Aug 5, 2022