Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

To Have and to Hold

5.9, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 74 votes
FA: Dave Bingham, 2003
Idaho > S Idaho > Castle Rocks > Castle Rocks > Poultry Pillar - Wedd…
Warning Access Issue: (1) BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park and US Forest Sevice lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING. US Forest Service Lands closed to new route developement. (2) Highlining temporary ban in place at CIRO/CRSP DetailsDrop down

Description

Superb, continuously interesting climbing. Starts with a layback flake and veers up and left through varied challenging moves to the anchors.

Location

Southeast side of Poultry Pillar (across from the Crack House on Castle Rock). It's the first route to the left of the heavily featured/fragile rock No Climb Zone. Look for the obvious layback flake.

Protection

Bolts with rap anchors at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the top!
[Hide Photo] At the top!
Eric Hobday grasping the concept of To Have and to Hold
[Hide Photo] Eric Hobday grasping the concept of To Have and to Hold

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Benjamin Eaton
Sandy, UT
[Hide Comment] stumbled upon this route today and decided to tick it off. It was an okay route. The first time, I veered out to the left around the third bolt, which made it easier. The second time, I decided to stay on the face the whole way and not use anything to the left...it made the route much better. May 14, 2012
RK Ravel
Portland, OR
5.9
[Hide Comment] Definitely a fun route. The first two bolts are challenging for the budding 5.9 climber but definitely worth doing. Climb starts backing off mid way up and thin finishes on 5.8 friction. Jul 3, 2013
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] As far as short 5.9s go, this one is super fun in my book. The lieback is short, but sweet. Jun 28, 2015
Corey Beinhart
ABQ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The beginning layback is superb! It's a serious shame that it's only 15 feet. After the layback is some cool face climbing and the route finishes with some interesting friction slab moves. Would be a pretty superb warmup. Nov 25, 2018
Mark Wanhainen
Jerome
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Traddy start to this fun moderate sport route May 20, 2024