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Balance Due

5.10c, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 33 votes
FA: Herb Laeger, Dave Evans & Dave Bruckman, December 1986
California > Joshua Tree NP > Wonderland of R… > Wonderland North > N Wonderland Ap… > Hidden Dome
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This route ascends the set of short cracks to the right of "Too Secret to Find" (the main crack on this face).
Mostly face climbing with a few finger jams up to the horizontal, then delicate face moves to gain the upper crack. The crux is the upper face section.
A fun route with interesting moves, definitely worth doing if you are in the area.

Descend from the summit of the dome by downclimbing to the climber's left back into the gully.

Protection

The bottom section protects surprisingly well with nuts and small TCUs. Two bolts protect the upper face section past the horizontal crack.
A belay must be set at the top (medium cams will do).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

hillary on balance due, far above the wonderland
[Hide Photo] hillary on balance due, far above the wonderland
Rick on Balance Due.
[Hide Photo] Rick on Balance Due.
Rick on Balance Due.
[Hide Photo] Rick on Balance Due.
Climb the set of slashes on the right side of the photo to gain the horizontal crack.
[Hide Photo] Climb the set of slashes on the right side of the photo to gain the horizontal crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
[Hide Comment] FYI I replaced the bolts on this route 11/02/07. The originals were 1" hardware store junk. It is now equipped with 3.5" 5 piece rawls. Someone has set a convenience anchor at the top. This is not my work.

A really nice route, by the way... Nov 9, 2007
Joshua Tree Runner
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
[Hide Comment] Cool! Thanks for replacing the bolts... Gonna head back out there this weekend... Apr 23, 2008
Michael Ybarra
on the road
[Hide Comment] The guidebook calls this 10c PG. If Screaming Poodle, two routes over, is 10c, Balance Due struck me as a couple of letter grades harder. Nov 19, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] That's funny - I thought screaming poodle was maybe 1 letter grade easier. At least the crux. Very different styles, for sure, and definitely significantly harder than too secret to find. Mar 25, 2011
Tradiban
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] The new Vogel selects guide (5.10b) has this clipping the bolts than traversing off right but traversing off would be better to do at the horizontal and not bother to clip the bolts. wish I would have known the proper way was straight up, looked pretty good.

The bolts in the hueco at the top are missing hangers but there's a nice net of anchors right over "Too Secret to Find". Feb 13, 2012
Tradiban
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Ah yes, they seemed to be in a strange spot. Where's the other side? Feb 13, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Thin pro placements make this a proud send. Bomber gear but get your head on for thin stuff. Bolts are fat and well placed with primary crag anchor up top. Stoppers, small gear and your lid on tightÂ… that's what this route takes. Absolutely worth doing is any move harder than 10b? Not sure, but I'll go with 10c as it's game on for the lead. Nov 14, 2013
Gargano
Arizona
 
[Hide Comment] Great route offering a nice mix of thin cracks and delicate face. Technical the whole way, but broken by a nice stance at about halfway. The gear in the first section is all bomber, but can be fiddly to place. Brass and small camming units will sew it up. Crux is up high and is well-protected. Feb 10, 2014
Dustin Stephens
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] One of my favorite 5.10's in Joshua Tree. Sustained and excellent climbing. Healthy run above the second bolt, but the crux is well protected. Feb 6, 2017