[Hide Comment] A beautiful line. The supertopo guide lists microbrew as a thin crack traversing in from the right.

For the first pitch I did a mediocre 5.7 directly up to the ledge between microbrew and Haystack. It was ok but dirty in a few places. Also the pro got sparce just below the ledge so I did a little traverse out right on the face and then back to the ledge.

The 2nd pitch corner felt harder than the .10a that everyone is talking about to me but the roof felt more .11a like. Make what you will of that. I agree with caughtinside about the small gear and would even recommend triples in the green and yellow aliens. I usuallly scoff when a route says doubles on nuts but I used up every single one of mine on this beautiful pitch.

I also belayed about 10ft up from the old 1/4inch bolts on small hand size pieces and could see the follower alot better. May 14, 2008

[Hide Comment] I could have swore they were 1/4 inch but then again I was a little spent and the wind was really kicken up that day at the top. Plus aren't 1/4 inch bolts all bomber??? ;} May 24, 2008

[Hide Comment] Rules of thumb:

1/4": bad. 3/8": good. 1/2": excellent. 5/8": sandstone (and still crossing fingers!) or used to hold buildings to their foundations in earthquake retrofits.

1/4" bolts are not a standard anymore, they're usually somewhat rusted out at this point, and look like they're a little bent. May 29, 2008

[Hide Comment] Was responding in general terms, and hopefully to dispel the question of whether or not 1/4" bolts are bomber (NO!). I have no idea if the bolts on the top of p2 are 1/4". It might be worth looking into. Anyone else know? May 31, 2008

[Hide Comment] Climbed this route last month, the belay has 2 solid 3/8" and a lone 1/4", which looks pretty solid...it holds, so that has to count for something... Jul 11, 2008

[Hide Comment] Just attempted this yesterday. The corner on the second pitch is very thin and balancey before the roof. Supertopo calls it .11b and Falcon calls it 10d, I'm inclined to agree the former. In any case, it is a stunning and inspiring line with good, albeit thin, gear. Jul 6, 2011

[Hide Comment] Bring lots of little cams and nuts. I didn't place anything bigger than a .75 camalot. Traversing right under the roof for 5 feet or so (to a drilled pin) puts you on Out to Lunge, 10d--turn the roof then get back in the corner. Getting to the roof is definitely harder than p1 of sinbad/herbert or surreal pillar direct. A 3.5-star route. Aug 1, 2011

[Hide Comment] If you mistake P1 of East Corner for P1 of Haystack you will end up wondering why P2 of East Corner seems really, really hard for 5.8! Retreating from the crux overhang and finishing up P2 of Pop Bottle seemed like a good idea. Sep 14, 2012

[Hide Comment] The corner is one of the best pitches at the leap! Warning: it can be running with water early season.. making it very full value (crux felt like Moratorium wet). I don't see how you could aid it at 5.10a... maybe it was the wetness, but it felt like 5.10c/d gaining the roof with small gear at your feet.. heads up for sure, I wouldn't head up there if 5.10a was your limit.

As for April 20 there was a big snow patch at the mid-way ledge (10'x6'), it was hard to keep our rope dry. Apr 23, 2013

[Hide Comment] I agree with Peter - the corner is cool, but getting up under the roof is very thin. Climbed this on 5/31 and there was quite a bit of dirt and grass in the crack, which forced me to aid one move below the roof and french free the roof. The crack takes small nuts and many small cams (blue alien, red/green C3). I had one of each and wished I had doubles or more. The crack thins out about 6 ft below the roof - thinner than tips for me. Above the roof, the climbing eases up and an airy step left out of the corner gets you to the bolted anchor on Pop Bottle (about 100 ft pitch). Jun 2, 2014

[Hide Comment] The crack thins out, but there are inobvious microfeatures on both walls that allow it to go- its 10a up to there, and then the 5.11 work begins under and through the roof. Was very happy to pull it off free yesterday Jun 9, 2014

[Hide Comment] Indeed, textbook .10a up to the roof, just slightly thin and fiddly gear for your average 5.10 route. You usually don't see thin gear like that until you're in the upper .11's and .12's. But the angle of the wall really keeps the grade in check.

...And the roof goes at 5.10d as stated in the book(The "real" book). Of course, only if you find all the microfeatures;) Jun 9, 2014

[Hide Comment] I must have missed something, because the last 8ft before the roof seemed much harder than 10a. After a bomber 0.3 X4 I was desperately trying and failing to hip scum/bridge my way up. Jun 24, 2018

[Hide Comment] The roof move is sorta dynamic if you are under 5'11" and have fat fingers. Jul 24, 2018

[Hide Comment] Anchor bolts appeared to be 3/8" with SMC hangers (the okay kind). Bring a good selection of medium sized stoppers and small cams, especially blue metolius/green alien sized cams. There's also a spot for a purple c3 right below the roof. Expect lots of delicate stemming/footwork. Aug 14, 2020

[Hide Comment] Climbed this last week, came back and cleaned this out pretty good today 7/10....there was lots of buried gear/fingers. Jul 10, 2022

[Hide Comment] Climbed this yesterday with my buddy Ryan, great day out! was very fun, varied climbing, in the shade until noon ish this time of year.

Some beta below for those who are interested:
-
P1 we climbed Preparation H, great pitch with good varied gear. Traverse the hand crack at the end to the big ledge, little spicy for the follower, but its easy terrain - would keep in mind that it does cross over haystack's first pitch incase there are other on it. Belay in the corner with .3-.5 size pieces & save a #1 or #2 for the traverse to the ledge.

P2 (east corner- 35m) definitely not 10a.... 5.11a/b, with some small tips crimps over the roof and and a slabby feeling sequence for me. Done right its definitely not reachy, but that doesn't mean its easy. Crux is bracketed with 5.10 slabby corner climbing below and 5.9ish insecure slabby corner above. The crux was well protected with small gear, not below your feet when pulling crux moves. I would recommend triples from 0.1-0.3 for anyone who wants more gear. We belayed from the bolts out on the left face and backed them up, from what I remember they are pretty rusty.

P3 (5.4/5.5 ish) easy blocky terrain to the summit, you can belay from a non burned (alive) tree. Jul 7, 2023