[Hide Comment] This is a great climb that requires a nice variety of techniques. If I recall, you might want to bring some small gear for the crux moving up off the first belay. Mar 30, 2006

[Hide Comment] A cool variation called Big Toes (5.11) traverses right at the upper roof to another thin crack about 10 feet to the right of the regular route. Rejoin thin fingers about 10 feet below the anchor. Oct 24, 2006

[Hide Comment] This one really should be called "thin hands". The splitter upper crack is primarily #1 camalots. I'd bring at least three #1 camalots next time - I only had two and had to back clean.

A good rack would be doubles thin to #2 camalots, with some extra #1 and #0.75 camalots. Small nuts are useful as well.

The 11a crux is hard and balancy. I cheated. I'm blaming the ... err.. humidity. The upper crack is sweetness and worth the cheat.

70m gets you down perfectly. Jun 4, 2007

[Hide Comment] Triples of red and green camalots is a little excessive for this route. Sep 7, 2010

[Hide Comment] Agreed that triples red/green is excessive, but some like excess. With some advanced TRing skills, you can make a 60 work utilizing the ledge system climber's right of of the route about 10 feet up to belay from and/or walk down off. It's funky but functional and mostly safe. Jul 19, 2011

[Hide Comment] SPOILER ALERT

Reachy move off the first ledge gets you a good finger lock. You can put a small nut in the thin seam off the second ledge for a little extra protection. I start the slab crux with my right hand on a couple of low right side pulls to the right of the slab crux, my left on the good foothold on the far right of the slab, and my left hand working up the thin seam on the slab. Get a piece in right above the slab and another one once you've got your hands on the flake off the slab, before you turn it into hand jams. Get a #2(?) in half way up the hand jams. Rest at the roof, put in pro at the roof or reach up left. Lieback the next short flake entirely, putting a #.75 off the first good stance, then gun for the jugs. Easy climbing up and right from there. Oct 18, 2012

[Hide Comment] Beta Alert

When you climb this route, if you're trying to do the crux off the first anchor the 5.11 way, I would vote for not focusing too much on what the description says about skipping the crux by going out right for a 5.10 variation because when I climbed the route I found (after standing on the ledge for a long time) that the most natural way for me to get established on the first good foothold on the 5.11 crux was actually to traverse into it from the right.

The 5.10 option is great to know about, but I think there's something useful over there for the 5.11 version as well, so don't put your blinders on like I did. May 23, 2013

[Hide Comment] A couple DMM Peenuts protect the thin crack above the first anchor very nicely. There are a few spots with potential for falling onto ledges; keep the rope clipped up. Jul 17, 2017

[Hide Comment] FYI our full length 70m rope just barely made it with a tiny bit of down-climbing required. Make sure to watch the end of your rope! Great climb. Aug 28, 2017

[Hide Comment] Seanald, A full 70 Meter rope should get you down to the ground no problem unless you're TR'ing and your belayer is down trail. I've never had that issue with the dozens of times I've been on the climb on lead or TR. For safety sake check the length of your line. Climb On! Aug 28, 2017

[Hide Comment] definitely sounds like your 70 is short, we had a decent amount of rope left over. Aug 29, 2017

[Hide Comment] To follow up on the 70m rope barely making it: I flaked my '70m' rope against another rope to estimate the length. Turned up a bit shorter than expected by nearly 15 feet! Never cut the rope so it is likely a bad case of shrinkage with age I guess.... Regardless we got down fine but I just wanted to point out that it is somewhat close and (as always) to watch the end. Aug 30, 2017

[Hide Comment] If you forget your 70 but still want to climb it, don't fear, there is a way! Lead the route in one pitch all the way to the upper chains, clip 'em and lower back down to the first anchor (not a bad idea to have a knot in the end of your rope for this). From there tether yourself to the anchor however you choose and go off belay. You can then TR belay your follower from there, don't forget to high five as they climb past and once they top out just lower them back down to the ground. Pull the rope and rap from the first anchor. Mar 26, 2018

[Hide Comment] ballnuts protect the boulder problem quite nicely. Jun 25, 2021

[Hide Comment] Throw a brassy or ball nut in the seam and take the time needed to figure out the crux, it's a cool sequence and keeps the climb more continuous/high quality. May 22, 2023