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Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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[Redacted] T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Barrel of Monkeys S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bloke On The Side T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Byway T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Chick on the Side T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Conversions T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X |
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Court Jester T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Crazy Stairs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Curving Dihedral T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dandi-Line T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dead Letter Department T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Drug Abuse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Erickson's Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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False Prophet T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Fever, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Going Postal T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Good Ship Venus T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Handcracker Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hanging Chad T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Heatwave T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code aka Pony Code) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Human Factor, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Hyperspace Roundup T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Ignominity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ignore Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Iron Horse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Iron Pony T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Junk Mail T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lightning Bolt Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lost in the Netherlands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mail Ridge Variation Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mail Ridge, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mesca-Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Muscle and Hate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Passing Lane T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Pony Express T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Practice Climb 101 T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Practice Wall T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prison Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pygmy Pony T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Quicksand T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Reckoning T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rhombohedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Rope to Ruin T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seemingly Innocent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Side Wall, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Sister Morphine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Sooberb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sooberb Lite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sundial T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sword Of Damocles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unbroken Chain T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Unbroken Prophet T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Warp Drive Overload S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Who's Holding T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Wind Tunnel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Zeros and Ones T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Zip Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | First 1/2 :Chad Greedy & Steve Levin, 2000. Second 1/2 same folks, March 2007 |
| Page Views: | 940 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This climb is decent rock and fun moves- for a majority of the climb the holds are good and interesting. The rock is solid, save for in a few spots in the crack where it is better described as a "rotten seam" that would be tempting to try to protect.
While there are 2 physical cruxes to this climb, the first joining the crack above the bulge/roof, and then about 2 meters above that in some thin lie-backs, mentally it is just keeping your head together and not getting pumped placing gear that isn't really there.
Climb up and right from the obvious right end of the overhang below the 4 cracks and onto a foothold to reach a slanting "rail" (slopes) on the right face and get a hand in the left crack. Pay now or pay later. Those trying to cheat difficulty by going further right at the beginning will have unprotected difficulties getting back to the crack. Those pulling up directly will have a hard move doing so, but closer to gear. From there tinker in some so-so gear (or don't) and then start climbing up on thin sidepulls with decent feet to reach some bigger holds. This will feel like a runout regardless of where your bad gear is, but the good holds come soon and the good gear shortly thereafter. Falling would be bad, but the route is not sandbagged, so solid 5.10 leaders are probably going to feel OK here. The climbing eases off quickly to be about 5.8 or so. Belay on solid gear at the top of the difficulty (will be obvious) and either follow a crack up and left to join Court Jester (5.10, S, with loose rock) or right to join Suburb (5.8). Either way, another 50' up there is a rap station marked as an 82' rap on page 223 of Rossiter's latest Eldo guide. It is actually a 100' rap back to the ledge and is located under a 'grabby' juniper.
While there are 2 physical cruxes to this climb, the first joining the crack above the bulge/roof, and then about 2 meters above that in some thin lie-backs, mentally it is just keeping your head together and not getting pumped placing gear that isn't really there.
Climb up and right from the obvious right end of the overhang below the 4 cracks and onto a foothold to reach a slanting "rail" (slopes) on the right face and get a hand in the left crack. Pay now or pay later. Those trying to cheat difficulty by going further right at the beginning will have unprotected difficulties getting back to the crack. Those pulling up directly will have a hard move doing so, but closer to gear. From there tinker in some so-so gear (or don't) and then start climbing up on thin sidepulls with decent feet to reach some bigger holds. This will feel like a runout regardless of where your bad gear is, but the good holds come soon and the good gear shortly thereafter. Falling would be bad, but the route is not sandbagged, so solid 5.10 leaders are probably going to feel OK here. The climbing eases off quickly to be about 5.8 or so. Belay on solid gear at the top of the difficulty (will be obvious) and either follow a crack up and left to join Court Jester (5.10, S, with loose rock) or right to join Suburb (5.8). Either way, another 50' up there is a rap station marked as an 82' rap on page 223 of Rossiter's latest Eldo guide. It is actually a 100' rap back to the ledge and is located under a 'grabby' juniper.
Location
Just to the left of the "sick flake" pitch of Sooberb, perhaps 4-5 meters there is a very shallow right facing corner that starts at the right end of a large overhang/roof. At the right end, a dark band below the roof extends so much as to fill in below it and give moderate access to that crack.
This is approached as for Sidewall and is about 20 meters right of Sidewall, for reference. It is the last crack between Sidewall and Sooberb if going left-to-right.
This is approached as for Sidewall and is about 20 meters right of Sidewall, for reference. It is the last crack between Sidewall and Sooberb if going left-to-right.
Protection
Cams 0.33-3" plus a set of nuts and certainly a set of brass or steel micro nuts.
To continue on Sooberb, a standard rack, to continue up and left past The Court Jester and into "P2" of The Human Factor, take extra 0.5-1" cams, maybe 3 total 0.75" pieces.
This route is difficult and has difficult to find and place protection some of which is certainly sparse and of questionable quality. I blew out one steel nut pulling on it from a stance, watching it pop and blow rock out of the cliff.
To continue on Sooberb, a standard rack, to continue up and left past The Court Jester and into "P2" of The Human Factor, take extra 0.5-1" cams, maybe 3 total 0.75" pieces.
This route is difficult and has difficult to find and place protection some of which is certainly sparse and of questionable quality. I blew out one steel nut pulling on it from a stance, watching it pop and blow rock out of the cliff.
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