[Hide Comment] English Breakfast: Is the perfect introduction to 5.9 trad climbing.It may be short,but it has "Star Quality" crack climbing that is well protected and also make's a great TR.If the approach was twice as far,I'd still hike up to do this climb alone.Thank's to Eric and Jim for putting this climb up! Mar 3, 2006

[Hide Comment] soft for 5.9, stiff for 5.8. Jan 27, 2009

[Hide Comment] the bottom section is suprisingly splitter for mt. lemmon. the top 5.10 section is fun, but tricky. some of the holds are a bit hard to find!

i give the bottom section 3 stars; the top 2. Jan 4, 2010

[Hide Comment] Great climb. tHE CRACK IS PROBABLY ONLY 5.7. NO HARDER NO WAY. the top is difficult to figure out. do you go straght up to the left of the bolt. or do you wuss out and go left further from the bolt to the better holds. I am not sure which is the correct path. Nov 30, 2010

[Hide Comment] Sorry Dale, in the future we'll rate every bit of trad stuff a grade below what we think is, so you don't get upset, and make sure we chalk the holds on the harder sports stuff so you don't get confused.

You led Solar Flare yet? Love to hear how hard you think that is.

Geir led Solar E-Clips on gear, you should do that too so we know how hard we should rate that.

Then go up and lead Red Dwarf, if I have to change the ratings on all the trad routs at Sunspots I want to do all at once.

Thanks.


Nov 30, 2010

[Hide Comment] so what's the deal, some people are just going to grade half the climb and the rest are going to grade the whole thing? that seems a little misleading. actually that seems like utter chaos.

can we not grade the climb if haven't done the whole thing, please? kthxbai. Dec 1, 2010

[Hide Comment] Don't ask me, ask Dale. Dec 1, 2010

[Hide Comment] I had to google kthxbai and found this cute kitty


We need some people to rate the upper part and not the lower part to even it out. Dec 2, 2010

[Hide Comment] That crack is a Mt. Lemmon gem! I wish it went on forever. Dec 15, 2013

[Hide Comment] I led the bottom section for my first ever trad lead. Awesome crack! Excellent first trad lead. You can lace this thing up with lots of easily placed bomber gear. Almost too good of a first trad lead because I never felt like I wanted to crap my pants at any points or have a meltdown and cry, which is more how I envisioned my first trad lead going. Probably not going straight to troll wall next weekend. Feb 2, 2014

[Hide Comment] Tommy, you made me laugh since I had the same feeling after climbing this thing :) This was probably the least scary trad climb I've done on Mt Lemmon (or in general since I'm not a tradster) Nov 4, 2015

[Hide Comment] Went to the first chains. Felt no more than 5.8 but maybe only because I wasn't as gripped as I usually am leading trad, as the pro is super friendly. Great feet the whole way, would be a good first gear lead for someone comfortable at 5.9 sport. Short but stellar. Man, where can I find more cracks like this one?! Jan 2, 2020

[Hide Comment] The lower crack system is fun, but short. The upper headwall is a bit loose. I pulled off a hold the size of an orange and took a whip. Dec 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] Compared to other standard Lemmon 5.9s (R4, Mistaken Identity, Stoner's Boner, etc.), EBC to the first anchor is not 5.9 - more like 5.8-. Amazingly well protected (as discussed) - perfect for a new trad leader or someone like me who got scared away from trad climbing after a scary fall.

Rack: bring nuts, doubles 0.3-0.75 and singles 1,2,3. Also, if it's not obvious, start up the crack directly below the ledge, don't skip the fun (well protected) start by scrambing up the blocky ledge. The loose looking toaster block is solid. Feb 7, 2022