Shit for Brains
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Mark Powell, 1966 |
Page Views: | 1,480 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 · Updates |
Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
"Shit For Brains" lies a short distance right of where the trail going south from Lunch Rock first touches the base of the rock. Four bolts will be seen on the slab above. Climb a debris filled crack on the left side of the slab. At the cracks end move right onto the face and work up and right to a flared hole that takes gear, such as a small Tricam or cam. Continue up the steepening face to a high first bolt. Climb up and left from the bolt over orange rock to more featured rock and a second bolt. Pass a horizontal that takes a 0.5 cam to reach a 3rd bolt. You will climb past four bolts total to a ledge with a pine tree (105) feet. "Shit for Brains" is a rope stretcher, so be careful. It is advisable for the belayer to move up the rocky step to the right in order for the rope to reach the ground, if toproping. Although the runout nature of "Shit For Brains" may not appeal to some, it is a fun endeavor for those wishing to test their face climbing/ friction skills.
Rappel from a tree at the end of the climb.
Rappel from a tree at the end of the climb.
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