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Upper Royal's Arch
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.4 from 144
votes
Routes in West Face - Left Side
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Blank, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cutter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dave's Deviation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dave's Deviation Direct Start T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Devil's Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Frightful Variation T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Gallwas' Gallop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jam Crack, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jonah T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Legends of the Fall T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Manwich T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Passover, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Piton Pooper T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Poker Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poker Face Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rack, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scarface T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Spiders From Mars/Lower Royals Arch/Ziggy Stardust T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sweedish Variation T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tradiban's Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Trough, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M1 |
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Upper Royal's Arch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whale Walk T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, and Chuck Wilts, 1953 |
| Page Views: | 12,219 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Getting to the base of this route is more difficult than climbing it.
Move off the ledge and follow the arch up. When staying in the arch becomes too difficult, move left onto the face and up before moving back to the arch. Surmount the arch at the obvious weakness then move up and over a final headwall. Pull over the improbable steep face on good holds and belay off a tree or on gear under large boulders.
Move off the ledge and follow the arch up. When staying in the arch becomes too difficult, move left onto the face and up before moving back to the arch. Surmount the arch at the obvious weakness then move up and over a final headwall. Pull over the improbable steep face on good holds and belay off a tree or on gear under large boulders.
Location
Easiest access to Upper Royals Arch is from Piton Pooper. After climbing the first 20 meters of Piton Pooper, start looking to move up and left to a pine tree. Some adventurous climbing up and left behind a bushy ledge eventually leads you to the pine tree at the base of the arch. Belay on a small ledge left of the pine tree on a gear anchor. 50 meters from Pine Tree Ledge.
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