[Hide Comment] Long runners are key. I recall doing this a while back in 1 pitch with a beginner rack with only 2 slings and having enormous drag issues at the top of this climb. Despite this, nice climb. Mar 1, 2006

[Hide Comment] Double ropes, although still calling for extending placements, make this an excellent one-pitch climb. If you have occasion to try the whole route in one pitch, it's a great place to hone your double rope technique. Jan 5, 2007

[Hide Comment] Very nice lead, and doubles are definitely a plus. I was a little concerned about finding a placement to protect the belay anchor starting off the second pitch, but found a great slot for a gold Ballnut.

I think this is also the route where I found a copperhead staring out at me from the horizontal where I was planning to place a green Camalot on P2. I ran it out instead. Jan 28, 2008

[Hide Comment] In the spring of 1978 I took a friend up Disneyland for his first climb. He managed the first pitch okay, but ran out of gas on the second. Another friend who was with us came up the easy path from the north and joined me at the belay atop the route. He had a six-pack which we began while our pal thrashed on the face below. (He claimed his jeans were too tight to make a high foothold.) After a few minutes it was clear he couldn't finish the pitch, so we tried dragging him up. He was pretty heavy and we were laughing too hard too make much progress--we'd lift him a few feet then crack up, lose our grip, and drop him. He wasn't very happy. Defeated, I tied him off and we relaxed with our beers, enjoying the view while he swore at us. We encouraged him to rest and recover his strength; he swore louder. Then we heard rustling in the woods behind. A very large guy and his girlfriend appeared. I offered him a beer if he pulled on the rope. "I was in the Marines!" he declared, and swiftly drew our friend up to large holds. The Marine happily went on his way with a cold one and our pal, scowling and scraped, struggled up to us. He declined an opportunity to top rope Dirty Gertie. Feb 19, 2008

[Hide Comment] It makes no sense to belay in the notch following the awkward mantle. Instead, move up into the open book/corner above and belay from there on a bomber piton backed up with nuts. You can then extend down to a better stance which allows you to watch your second on the face below. Really great climbing if you have your logistics sorted out. Apr 14, 2008

[Hide Comment] Long runners. One pitch. Long runners!

All of the belay stances are sucky - avoid them! There's also communication issues. If you're on top it's really hard to hear someone at the belay above the mantle. Much easier if they are on the ground and can walk out to where they can see you.

One of the best routes in the Gunks but it definitely gets more than it's share of gumbys. I was standing at the bottom once waiting for the belayer to leave the stance. Nothing was happening other than shouts that neither one could figure out. Walked up to the top and there was a guy sitting there at a complete loss - he had dropped his belay device and didn't know how to set a belay without it. They would have probably been up there all night if I hadn't come by! Apr 14, 2008

[Hide Comment] Do it in one pitch, just make sure you extend your slings at the start. I've never seen so many pins on one climb at the Gunks. I think I used a total of 5 pieces of gears for the entire climb. Sep 26, 2010

[Hide Comment] for what it is worth. Climbing Magazine rated this the best 5.6 climb in North America a few years ago. Not sure about that (better than Shockleys, High E and Madame G?), but it is very nice. Aug 17, 2011

[Hide Comment] Its not even remotely close to the best 5.6 in the Gunks let alone the country. It is a nice climb and fun, but hardly rates that high. Aug 18, 2011

[Hide Comment] Had to deal with a stuck rope on this route today, pinned into the small crack / flake under the overhang towards the end of the final traverse. Extend your pieces!! Nov 4, 2017

[Hide Comment] This is a bit soft for 5.6 IMO. Really only the mantle move feels 5.6.

Giving this 3 stars because it's the best 5.6 in the Nears, but there are at least 5 better 5.6s over in the Trapps. Aug 15, 2018

[Hide Comment] Followed a party today that made the first belay in the notch look so awful that I decided to follow Jeffrey’s advice and belay from slightly higher. Wow, can’t believe anyone would do it any differently - such a chill and easy belay! Jun 15, 2019

[Hide Comment] The crux of the whole climb is awkwardly mantling up to sit next to your partner at the end of P1. P2 makes it worth it though--quite nice. Oct 6, 2019

[Hide Comment] Either do it in one pitch or establish a semi-hanging belay after the corner notch. Aug 19, 2020

[Hide Comment] First route I ever lead on my second day climbing in 1978. It didn’t work out well. Ended up on Disney Point. Split my head wide open. Feb 17, 2021

[Hide Comment] Amazing rock and position at a moderate grade. Doing it in one pitch is the way to go...extend your protection and bring some double length alpine slings! Sep 11, 2021

[Hide Comment] Set up a hanging belay just above the belay ledge for Pitch 1 at the first piton before getting into the open book. I was able to back up the piton with cams and a nut. I then had the second belay at the notch sitting down and extended their anchor point from the hanging belay off the piton down to them and had a second anchor point of a cam for them in the crack to the climber's right.

This allowed them to partially see me climb the 2nd pitch and prevented an awkward head jam if I fell and pulled them up into the roof in the case if your back was against the main cliff belaying. The hanging belay was quite comfortable and made it slightly easier to transition since we weren't cramped together trying to not push each other off the ledge. Dec 5, 2021

[Hide Comment] I agree that this is best done in one pitch, but if it’s your first time climbing it, I suggest remaining open to both options.

Instead of the cramped belay after the mantle, I suggest climbing until the final roof, which you exit right. At this point, you can assess your rope drag and determine whether you need to build a hanging belay. This final roof can take plenty of good pro. Oct 23, 2022

[Hide Comment] Polished. Nov 17, 2024