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> Out-of-Downers Dome
Hogback Growler
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Out-of-Downers Dome
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Hogback Growler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Teabaggin' T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unidentified-2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unidentified-3 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,583 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Abbott on Feb 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This climb is a bit tricky to find because the start is hidden among giant boulders near the left (west) end of the rock. There a wide crack that narrows to a friendlier size about 30 feet up, with face-climbable plates on the right wall.
P1: Face climb the plates on the right until you can stand on the ledge formed by the top of the plates and walk left to the crack. This involves about 15 feet of unprotected 5.8 climbing on positive holds. I give it an "R" (Kerry does not) because you'd crater from about 20 feet if you blew it balancing your way up onto the ledge. And it's probably harder if you're short, big surprise.
Then there's a short off-width section, very friendly, you can get heel-toe jams with both feet at the same time. Then some steep hand-jamming until chickenheads appear on your left. (The crack climbing runs about 5.8.) Climb chickenheads as the angle eases up, continue up to a right-angling ramp, then follow the ramp up and right about 50 feet to the belay, just short of a friendly hand crack leading up.
P2: Climb the friendly, low-angle hand crack, 5.6. This pitch and the next are more face climbing than crack climbing. Belay on the shoulder of the rock, at dirt level. You could walk off right here.
P3: Step back out to the face, and climb the right-angling crack formed between the face on the right and a sort of nose on the left, 5.6. Belay just short of the summit ridge, just before the cracks peter out, because the summit ridge is devoid of protection. This pitch is quite short, and I'm guessing you could combine it with P2 using a 60m rope.
Unrope and walk carefully along the summit ridge to the right/east where a trivial step down to the dirt is semi-concealed by a tree. If you continue down to the right/east, you'll pass along the base of the dome behind Out-of-Downers. It looks like a safe bet that you could instead walk down to the left/west, which would be a quicker route back to the start of the climb.
P1: Face climb the plates on the right until you can stand on the ledge formed by the top of the plates and walk left to the crack. This involves about 15 feet of unprotected 5.8 climbing on positive holds. I give it an "R" (Kerry does not) because you'd crater from about 20 feet if you blew it balancing your way up onto the ledge. And it's probably harder if you're short, big surprise.
Then there's a short off-width section, very friendly, you can get heel-toe jams with both feet at the same time. Then some steep hand-jamming until chickenheads appear on your left. (The crack climbing runs about 5.8.) Climb chickenheads as the angle eases up, continue up to a right-angling ramp, then follow the ramp up and right about 50 feet to the belay, just short of a friendly hand crack leading up.
P2: Climb the friendly, low-angle hand crack, 5.6. This pitch and the next are more face climbing than crack climbing. Belay on the shoulder of the rock, at dirt level. You could walk off right here.
P3: Step back out to the face, and climb the right-angling crack formed between the face on the right and a sort of nose on the left, 5.6. Belay just short of the summit ridge, just before the cracks peter out, because the summit ridge is devoid of protection. This pitch is quite short, and I'm guessing you could combine it with P2 using a 60m rope.
Unrope and walk carefully along the summit ridge to the right/east where a trivial step down to the dirt is semi-concealed by a tree. If you continue down to the right/east, you'll pass along the base of the dome behind Out-of-Downers. It looks like a safe bet that you could instead walk down to the left/west, which would be a quicker route back to the start of the climb.
Protection
The route is pure trad -- no fixed anchors or protection. Bring a standard rack, plus extra pieces in the #2-#3 Camalot neighborhood for the first pitch. Anything larger probably wouldn't do you any good. The short off-width section has a crack in the back that will take a cam in that #2-#3 Camalot range.
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