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Carbs and Caffeine
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 139
votes
Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons
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No Man's Land T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Tiers of Fear T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Scary Area T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Prick, The T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Asil T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mona T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ventre de Boeuf T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Boldina T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Amor Conditionnel T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unslung Heroes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | FA (crux): John Bragg & Ivan Rezucha - 1975FFA (complete): Mark Robinson & Kevin Bein - 1979 |
| Page Views: | 25,196 total · 107/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
Another super-classic route in the Yellow Wall area. This begins just right of The Yellow Wall itself and shares a belay with Airy Aria.
P1 (5.9, 60'): Begin on the arete just right of the OW corner of Airy Aria, and climb a left-diagonaling finger crack to a nice belay ledge out left. Belay here at two bolts. A decent, well-protected crack pitch.
P2: Climb up and right off of the belay through a wild system of roofs. There are frequent places to rest -- including a no-hands knee bar immediately below the crux. Reach up and clip a bolt, then pull a difficult move (11a -- but I thought it was harder) to a tenuous stance on tiny holds. A few more desperate moves up and right will get you to a thank-God stance and #2 Camalot placement in a horizontal. Climb up more roofs (successively pumpier), to a final ass-kicking, cramped, hand traverse right to a belay stance. This feels almost as hard as the crux move, but shorter folks may be able to cruise it.
Protection
It's 35m from the fixed anchor atop Pitch 2 to the ground. With care, it's possible to lower with a 70m rope; otherwise, walk back to the High Exposure rappel line.
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