[Hide Comment] My memory is that the crux is the first pitch... 5.9 slab climbing in and around some overlaps. But I could have been a tad off route. Feb 18, 2006

[Hide Comment] Andy, I believe you are right about the crux. The move over to the 2 bolt belay and then the frist move onto the second seen to be the hardest bit for me. The Chimney exit could be a head crux, because there is some air under you. But the hand jam is bomber and feet I thought to be good.

Dave Feb 21, 2006

[Hide Comment] IMHO The best long moderate route in SoCal. Whenever I need to get back to the reason why I began climbing, I jump in my car with a mate and go climb Whodunit.

The red dotted line in the beta photo is a little to the right of the actual route. Pitch 1 needs a very small cam at the overlap below the crux I used a .3 Alien, plus a #1 Wallnut on the slabby section above. RPs or Brass Offsets may work also. I didn't use the Edgehogs bolted anchor - I figured that was off-route. Mar 6, 2006

[Hide Comment] Bring some wide (4") gear for one of the pitches. Its a little offwidthy in a section or two...

Theres a good ledge every 100-150 feet. Jul 29, 2006

[Hide Comment] My first climb on Tahquitz. I thought it was outstanding. Such a great varity of crack climbing. We had a cool clear day and no one else around. Aug 21, 2006

[Hide Comment] Just climbed this route again after 15 years, and this climb simply rocks! You get everything on this baby - slab, fat crack, chimney, hand crack, finger crack... phew, the list goes on and on. Bring some small wires and/or steel nuts for the first pitch - you'll be wanting them. I also appreciated the #4 camalot on the wide pitch above the chimney. Bring lots of long slings as well. It tops out right on the summit of Tahquitz - for an added bonus. I disagree with the description saying this route could easily be done in 5 pitches. We combined the last two (per the Vogel/Gaines topo and just made it with a 60m) and did the entire route in 7 pitches.. BUT attempting to do it in five pitches will guarantee some pretty serious rope drag and less than pleasant belays. Sep 4, 2006

[Hide Comment] This is a favorite route at Tahquitz. There are several variations higher up, including a sweet finger crack out right, then left to a slightly overhanging dihedral. Simply outstanding. Sep 18, 2006

[Hide Comment] Definitely gets my vote for best climb at Tahquitz. Whodunnit is a STELLAR 5.9! I try to run up it at least once every season.

I agree with Darshan but must paraphrase: there's a good belay ledge every 150 - 200 feet. Andy, it can be easily climbed in 5 pitches, that's the only way I've ever done it on a 60m. But I have to admit, P4 is a true rope-stretcher; last time up I literally lassoed that tree (that grows out of the crack at the start of the 4th class/5.2 final pitch) with a 4' runner to start my anchor. ;-) The key is to 4th class the start to the right of the climb to an obvious belay ledge, then head up and left over the slabs, bypassing the bolted anchor and setting up a belay closer to the chimney.

I'd say the first pitch is the crux, but there are only two 5.9 friction slab moves (albeit a little dicey :0) Dave's right - the move out of the chimney is a head crux; great jam, probably 5.8, EASY to protect. But that's another thing that's great about Whodunnit - it eats gear all the way up.

If you want to mix it up a bit next time you climb this route, try this - my friend Adam and I did Whodunnit passive - full set of nuts, medium to large hexes, three tri-cams. I'm not usually one to leave the cams in the car but this was really fun for a change and this climb is well suited for it. Mar 10, 2007

[Hide Comment] does anyone have any information on how this route got its name? Heard that Royal Robbins found a mysterious pin when they were doing the "FA" but nothing more.

Thanks... Sep 10, 2007

[Hide Comment] I had the opportunity to ask Royal about the route name and spelling. He said that they named the route "Hoodenett" (pronounced who'-dnit with the emphasis on "who"). This spelling can be seen in older guidebooks including the Wilts guide. Later guidebooks bastardized the name as "Whodunit." Anyway, yes, it appears the name came from a mysterious pin found along the route.


Pasted from the interwebs:
14 Feb, 1998
"....I thought you might be interested in the background of the name. At the time, this route was the only obvious line on the north face that had not been climbed, so Royal and I set out on it. We knew it hadn't been climbed because of the pristine nature of the first pitch which in those days would have been aided by anyone (glad to hear it now goes free). Indeed, for three or four pitches there were no piton scars or any sign of previous passage. And then, somewhere around the middle of the route, we came across a piton. How did it get there? Who did it? From there to the top there was no other sign of previous climbing, so we felt quite comfortable in claiming the first ascent. But in a fit of youthful humor and a naive attempt at worldly sophistication, we decided to give the obvious question, "Who done it?" a French twist (although one wouldn't find "hoo" in French). Anyway, it was originally our phonetic equivalent of "hoo-da-nae" (hence, the otherwise inexplicable double t's at the end). Originally, we might have spelled it "...don..." or "...dun...", but Wilts got it "...den..." and that's fine with me. Vogel was onto something, of course, but while clarifying one bit of history he defaces another. So it goes. .....Taquitz was my climbing cradle, as it was for many of the top climbers in that and succeeding generations. For sheer pleasure in climbing I don't think any other area matches it. All the best,
Joe Fitschen" Sep 20, 2007

[Hide Comment] THE CLASSIC of Tahquitz!! Couldn't get any better! Sep 25, 2007

[Hide Comment] Thanks Jon. Much appreciate it.

And hey, SP Dave Daly. Nice to see you making the rounds here. Yeah, it is indeed a great and classic route. Oct 2, 2007

[Hide Comment] Climbed it again on 6/11/08. In the sun from 11am in June. Hot. Climbed it in 6 pitches this time. First pitch to the bolts. Second pitch to the ledge. Third pitch out the chimney to the good stance. Fourth pitch up the crack, skip the first good ledge, and continue up to the next good ledge (above some jammed chockstones - which are rope eaters!). Fifth pitch starts left up the thin cracks, and then moves right. Go all the way up to a sloping stance about 40' below the roof.. Sixth pitch was over the roof and all the way to the top (60m+?). Five pitches is possible, but it would require linking the first two pitches. Jun 11, 2008

[Hide Comment] I hate to add to the ever growing debate about the true minimum number of pitches for this route. That being said, the bolts aren't the first belay. The bolts are the belay for Edgehogs. The first belay was always a rope stretcher to tree/first small ledge. With a partner comfortable with easy simul-climbing, the big ledge was a better bet. Jun 11, 2008

[Hide Comment] I am wondering what people would grade this climb, grade III or Grade II Jul 4, 2008

[Hide Comment] Just a fantastic day of climbing. Every pitch gives you a new challenge and your full range of skills are needed at some pont or other.
Unfortunatley, too many people will show up just for this climb. I have hiked around to the face and seen 3 parties already on the route with 3 more figuring out who is next at the start. All the while some great lines to either side are totally empty. There are other good adventures here.. Feb 23, 2009

[Hide Comment] Fantastic climb! Every pitch was great! It's also cool to do a route that ends right on the summit! I thought the crux was the thin smearing/fingertip crack at the overlap on pitch one, but my two climbing partners both thought exiting the chimney was harder. We did the route in 6 pitches, but by linking pitches one and two (which we didn't do because the ledges above were crowded with other climbers) I think this could be condensed to 5 long pitches pretty easily.

Regarding pro, I only brought up to a number 3 and that seemed to be plenty. I could see where the #4 would have been useful, but by looking around I was always able to find smaller gear where I needed it. Jul 12, 2010

[Hide Comment] great route, i have been informed that my start was to the right of wh ere we were supposed to start but other than that you would have to have no mountain sense to get off route.For me the start of pitch two was the mental crux, but what got us was the getting off the rock. Apr 16, 2011

[Hide Comment] Climbed this thing yesterday in four comfortable pitches with a 70m. Figured I would post my pitch beta for anyone interested in doing the same. Of course the leader should be familiar with techniques to help minimize rope drag. For the first pitch we skipped the Edgehogs anchors and continued up to the second ledge (just after the ledge with the small tree), about seventy feet below the chimney (68m, 5.9). The second pitch went up over the chimney to a slightly sloped ledge - the first available good belay (63m, 5.8+). After pulling this you head up and LEFT on a finger crack to avoid the main crack which is offwidth at this point. After rejoining the main crack by traversing on a short ramp you continue up and belay about 20 feet below the final overhang in a smallish stance just before two large detached blocks on the right (61m, 5.8). The final pitch surmounts the overhang by trending slightly right through a weakness and then up and slightly left through varied (but easy) terrain to the top of Tahquitz (63m, 5.6). Oct 9, 2011

[Hide Comment] Did it in 4 pitches with a 60m :)maybe a little simul-climbing involved, but nothing big. Same belays as Collin Parker posted last year. Didn't see his post till today though lol. May 16, 2012

[Hide Comment] Just got on this for the first time today. Wow. What a fantastic climb! Everything you could want at Tahquitz; fantastic cracks, a top out on the absolute true summit of the rock, chimneys, easy offwidths, one of the longest routes on the rock, great belays ledges, and lots of sustained climbing.

Not sure what all the talk is about the crux being on the first pitch. The first pitch, except for a couple of thin moves around the fixed pin near the edgehogs anchors, is not that bad, and nowhere near as sustained as most of the rest of the climbing. For your average climber, the chimney and the ten or so feet after the exit will prove to be the crux, but it really depends on what sort of climber you are.

It kind of does the climb a disservice to talk about it in terms of cruxes anyway. There's a wide variety of difficulties to overcome all the way up, and except for the last two pitches, most of the climbing is right around 5.8, with far fewer "breaks" than most of the Tahquitz routes I've been on (granted, lots of the easies and moderates).

Can't say enough about how much fun the day was. And on a beautiful September Saturday morning, we were the only people on the route, start to finish. One to remember! Sep 29, 2012

[Hide Comment] Sounds like maybe you did the first pitch of Edgehogs.

The crux moves are an attention getter off physiological pro (# 1 or #2 nut, if the placement isn't completely blown out by now)

The move past the fixed pin, just after the anchor, is inconsequential in comparison. Sep 30, 2012

[Hide Comment] I don't think we were on Edgehogs...here's a photo of Joe just getting ready to head into the crux of P1.

farm9.staticflickr.com/8040…>

Angled left along a bunch of awesome underclings to a thin crack where the deep dihedral begins. Were we on route? The hardest part of the pitch was the few feet below the bolted anchor, which i guess is actually the end of edgehogs P1, not P1 Whodunit? Sep 30, 2012

[Hide Comment] @ Chris D: it looks like you started to the left of Whodunit and joined up with the route just above the 5.9 crux. Looking at your photo, the first pitch crux move is just below and slightly to the right of your position. If you follow the crack that your hands are in to the edge of the photo, then go one crack below it and follow that crack up to the small overlap, that is where the first pitch 5.9 crux is located. Nov 5, 2012

[Hide Comment] Thanks Ken! I assume you meant "right" not "left" in your first sentence. Surprised I'd never read/heard that there was a reasonably direct way to avoid the crux of the pitch. It will be fun to get back there in the spring and have a go at the correct route up the first pitch.

The way we went on P1 (in the photo in my previous post) included good pro, a lot of underclings, and reasonably secure feet on wide-ish stems. Pretty sure there was nothing harder than .9, since I didn't fall. Jan 4, 2013

[Hide Comment] can be done in 4 pitches. Followed Colin Parker's Beta with 70 meter rope. Extend everything on pitch two during the chimney to prevent heinous rope drag Jul 7, 2013

[Hide Comment] WARNING - LOOSE BLOCK: Did the route last weekend. There is a gnarly loose block near the top of the first pitch (If you stretch it all way to the ledge in the dihedral, way past the edgehogs anchor). It is in a 6-8" crack in the dihedral, about 15ft below the ledge at the top of the first pitch. Long, lean, and arrow shaped, the block is about the size of a large bread loaf, and is determined to launch out of the crack. I used a cam to keep it wedged in there while my 2nd came up. We would've trundled, but high winds and lack of visibility around the corner kept us from letting it go.

Please be careful below this route until this block is removed...could be ugly.

Shane Jul 18, 2013

[Hide Comment] Wow....did this gem again this past weekend after 12 years. Just as fun as I remember it. Strange thing was that we saw almost nobody in the NW recess area all day!? We did it in 6 pitches by setting the last belay shortly below the last little 7/8 small overhang. With a 60m we were able to run it to the summit. Definitely small nuts to protect the crux on the first pitch and #4 camalot for the top of the chimney. Saving the #4 to walk up the pitch after the chimney could definitely help. Enjoy! Jun 11, 2014

[Hide Comment] Linking pitch 2 and 3 makes for the single funnest pitch of climbing I've done yet. Unreal jamming on flawless granite. Classic climbing all the way on this masterpiece of a route. Jun 1, 2015

[Hide Comment] My first time to Tahquitz and my second route there, this was awesome fun. A little bit of everything here. My buddy and I were super stoked when we sent it. I agree that the first pitch as you approach the anchor and then move into the second pitch is at lease as difficult as the Chimney exit. Jun 24, 2015

[Hide Comment] The crux is definitely halfway up the first pitch, but it can be well protected. I'd say only one move of 5.9. The chimney on the 3rd pitch (our 2nd pitch) was easier than a .9, even though I couldn't find the solid hand jam everyone keeps talking about (I have small hands). The rest of the route is fun, but not as fun as the Long Climb, which is way better IMO. Sep 8, 2015

[Hide Comment] Great climb, 5.8 or 5.9 climbing on pretty much every pitch. Not hard to follow the route either. Only section we couldn't run out the full rope length was around 2/3 of the way up; there was a roof that the rope liked to wedge itself into, and was making a lot of drag.

Make sure you bring small stoppers for the first section! May 17, 2016

[Hide Comment] Did this awesome climb yesterday. Just thought I'd mention if you're like me and don't like slab climbing you can climb easier cracks and flakes to the right of the first pitch, and climb leftward a little, and stretch the rope to the big ledge that is typically used for the top of the second pitch. This goes at about 5.6 and saves time you have a late start. Best to start by scrambling about 30-40 feet of class 3 stuff to a nice ledge between edgehogs and the long climb.

Rest of the route is utter awesomeness... Like an climbgasm lol Jun 12, 2016

[Hide Comment] My partner and I had a very close call here on June 25th. A party above us pulled a mini fridge sized rock off one of the pitches above the chimney. My partner, while on the first pitch, was grazed in the shoulder by a softball sized rock. I was belaying underneath a shelf on the first pitch and almost got hit in the head by a similar sized rock. Do not climb underneath people on this route. Jun 27, 2016

[Hide Comment] To expand the above statement, don't climb under anyone left of Super Pooper, it's a choss show all over the upper North Face. Better would be if everyone could be more careful all over the mountain and not knock anything off in the first place. Been all over the damn thing and never knocked a rock loose ever myself. Jun 27, 2016

[Hide Comment] Loved it. Cruxes were on P1 near the overlap, coming out of the chimney and the following 20 feet, and some friction moves to pass the first off-width section. Small and very small cams were particularly useful, small wires too (BD #2 especially). I didn't see a need for anything larger than a #3 C4. Definetely got my blood pumping in a few spots. Jul 1, 2016

[Hide Comment] This climb has been on my radar since I started climbing trad, and it was even better than I had imagined. We did it in 7 pitches, but it can easily be done in 4 or 5 with a 70m. Such a good climb. I felt the crux was the first pitch. Get on it! If you need a partner PM me, I'm down to go again, or any other climb for that matter! May 20, 2017

[Hide Comment] P1 crux is heads up first thing in the morning! A couple of #3 (BD) nuts make a big difference psychologically. Coming out of the chimney higher on the route is equally difficult but it's okay to fall there. Jul 18, 2017

[Hide Comment] Tricky route-finding on this route. My note - the "roof pitch" at the end is NOT a 10+ foot roof with a large fist sized notch in it. This is the roof of Edgehogs (10d) and is significantly harder. Also it's very sharp so be careful where your rope runs if you do attempt it.

The proper Whodunit roof has NO bolt but a couple of fixed pins and is quite small in comparison.

Awesome route though! Apr 25, 2018

[Hide Comment] To clarify Scotty's comment, finish to the right at the final roof, left is Edgehogs. Apr 25, 2018

[Hide Comment] Before the roof there is a rocking loose block just right of the corner. Do not yard on it! May 30, 2018

[Hide Comment] I agree this could be done in 4-5 pitches with comfortable belays. We did it in 5 1/2, but only because rope drag on the last pitch made me stop before the top. I also agree with Nathan grey (#3.5/4) or purple (#4/5) camalot is useful in a couple places that would otherwise be very run out. Also, watch out for fragile holds: I broke a hold about 10 feet above the chimney at took a big whip almost back to the bottom of the chimney.

I pulled a .75 BD Camalot on Monday 5/28/18. PM me with a description of where it was left (pitch, approximate location) and I'm happy to get it back to you. May 31, 2018

[Hide Comment] Climbed the route yesterday and it definitely lived up to the hype. We did it in 6 pitches but would do it in 5 next time by combining the first two pitches and skipping the anchors and belaying on the ledge. Wish I would have read the comments a little better and done it this way yesterday and it would have saved right foot from the pain that would ensue for the rest of the climb. My partner lead the first pitch to the anchors and I took the second pitch to the ledge. He was unable to remove one of the cams i placed so I rapped down and retrieved it along with a set of camp nuts someone dropped and had landed on a ledge just to the right of the route. Stoked on the booty and the fact that I got to chill on a great ledge with overcast skies and watch my partner, who is relatively new to climbing, grunt up through the chimney, I slipped my TC Pro's off and relaxed for a while. Can any one guess what this ass hole did when i was getting ready to put my shoes back on? Yep, I dropped my right shoe all the way to the base. My partner was already above the chimney and building an anchor when he heard me yell fuck and I explained to him what had happened. I wasn't about to let this minor setback force us to go back down so I told him don't worry i'll figure it out. You should have seen the look on his face when i got to the anchor with a climbing shoe on my left foot and a chaco sandal on my right. I climbed the last 2/3 of the route in this fashion and lead pitches 4 and 6 with the chaco. The fact that the dihedral is right facing helped out in that I could get away with jamming my left in the crack and smearing my chaco for a lot of the route but my toes did take quite the beating from having to jam my right foot when necessary. Any way, doubt anyone has climbed this in chacos before and I don't recommend it. I will absolutely get back on this route, I want to climb the chimney without a pack and with two climbing shoes. I would recommend this route to everyone! It has great pro when you need, the rock is solid the whole way, and i don think i've climbed a route this long and sustained at the 5.7-5.9 range. Jul 9, 2018

[Hide Comment] Climbed it last Saturday (8/11/18). Beware of the shoe eating 2nd pitch anchor - my friend also dropped a shoe from there. The @knowbuddy Buddy's post ruined a bit the otherwise fine experience - we hoped for my partner did the first FSAA (first single shoe ascent), but it was @knowbuddy Buddy whodunit (on record). Aug 14, 2018

[Hide Comment] Great route, my first at Tahquitz. We had no problems doing this in six pitches on a 60m. No shenanigans or rope drag. All comfy belays. The friction on the first pitch is the crux (I like slab), the chimney is easy (I like chimneys). Oct 18, 2018

[Hide Comment] The money pitches are the first several of the classic 8; as others mention the climbing difficulty eases considerably soon after the chimney. The final 8th pitch after ascending the roof is basically 4th class. Bring a 70m rope and do it in 4 pitches (described above in another comment). Very fun climb! May 31, 2020

[Hide Comment] Did this again a few years later: 4.5 pitches. Scrambled 30ft on 4th class to a nice stance. P1-2 link - rope stretch to a good stance (unbelievable pitch) 3-4 link to a decent stance above chimney (unbelievable pitch). Continue rope stretching pitches to the top. Last pitch was 20ft 4th class to the 5.4 roof thing then like 10 ft to a variety of belay options. May 30, 2021

[Hide Comment] Great line. The first pitch can be expedited (if slower parties await) via climbing the 5.10- P1 Edgehogs, clip the anchor with a long draw, traverse and continue climbing to the top ledge (your belayer will have to scurry up a bit along the 4th class rail to where the tree is). The crux bombay chimney is wonderful, use the crack out left and you can place a BD 4 C4 above the roof and feel confident. The rest was splitter and straight forward Tahquitz climbing. The last pitch you traverse right of large roof where you can fit a BD 2 C4 in a horizontal before pulling some hero moves. Jul 5, 2021

[Hide Comment] Detailed Pitch Breakdown
Here's a detailed six pitch breakdown since there really isn't one on this website yet. Most of the information in the comments is interesting, but I found it lacking in any substantial resources for route-finding, difficulty, belay anchors ect.

P1. 5.9 (****): Use beta photos, to find the direct crack don't climb in the corner, climb slight right of it. After climbing 20-30 feet of easy 5.6-5.7 handcrack the crack peters out into a thin shallow seam. Great to have extras in #00-#.3 as that's the gear you'll be placing mid-crux. After finishing the crux climb a short ten foot section before traversing left under the obvious two bolt anchor on the climbers right. This pitch can be linked with the next (with a 70 meter) to a big belay ledge to make the climb five pitches. Your belayer may need to simul-climb 5-10 feet on 4th class for you to reach the ledge.

P2. 5.8 (***): Climb the obvious and substantial easier corner from the two bolt belay. You'll use gear from #.3-#3 camalot to gain the big belay ledge. Note that some people stop roughly five feet from the belay ledge in the corner to belay off a bush/tree, if you belay here it would be a hanging awkward belay. Instead climb the obvious ledge which hosts a large bush with tat available, the ledge takes mid-sized gear with plenty of options to change out pieces.

P3. 5.9 (***): This is the chimney crux and its pretty wild and exposed but i'd argue that it easier than P1. First, climb up a awkward face past a bush on the right. Out of the two possible cracks right/left before the chimney id recommend the right as its easier and more well protected at 5.8. Next move into the chimney and well........ Climb it. After pulling the roof crux climb roughly twenty to thirty feet and either belay at a semi-hanging stance left or move a few feet right to a ledge. Don't push to far right or go up to high before making your belay. Several options exist for the gear at the anchor.

P4. 5.7-5.8 (***) It may be easier climbing, but get ready to work for it. This pitch follows a off-width/chimney (crux) off the belay in the obvious corner. After the crack narrows and disappears cut right. Staying left after the off-width leads a lichen covered thin crack. Cut right into a shoddy gully for 20 feet to turn a chossy roof (5.8-). Watch feet as pulling off a block could be deadly. Move to another blocky roof (5.7+) to a fantastic belay pod that can fit four. Belay off #.5-#1. This is a rope stretcher with a #60 and leaves about 20 feet with a #70

P5. 5.7+/5.8 (****) Off the belay, you should see a obvious wide-crack/chimney, dont climb if you value your skin. Move up and barely left off the belay to ignore the chimney/offwidth and climb the corner for about five feet before traversing back right across the wide-crack/chimney, After traverse right five to ten feet again launch up into the most exposed section of the climb. This 60 foot section is high quality exposed 5.6 climbing with great gear. Stop halfway up the corner with the next pitches roof in site. This belay is semi-hanging.

Note: If you prefer to avoid this belay and just want to pull the roof its possible with a 70 meter from the top of P4 to link into P6. This would combine 5/6 and lead to a great view, great belay and save alot of time. If you go this path, you wont have enough rope to top out and will have to pitch out the last forty feet of easy 5.3 to the summit.

P6. 5.8- (***) Launch up to the looming roof. Shoot right and around with decent gear and hook back left above the roof. This is the most exposed and satisfying moment on the route and is severely underrated. You'll notice things have gotten very low angle after pulling the roof. Your close to the finish. Rampage through the left angling crack (5.3, 50 feet) with decent gear to top out this classic.

In the summertime, this route goes into the sun periodically around 12-4 and stays in the sun till late day. Its a great climb if you don't have to wait in a queue and I remember loving something about every pitch. Use Chris D's photo as the topo for the pitch breakdown I used. Aug 28, 2022

[Hide Comment] Stellar route! Crux for me was P1, the chimney exit is not too strenuous if you find the right sequence.

To the party of five climbing in front of us the other day, please consider climbing in smaller parties or at least climbing less popular routes if you insist on climbing in this style. I was also stuck behind you on Fingertrip last year and it really sucks waiting for each party member tag up a line and then belay the person behind them. AFAIK, this is far from normal etiquette in Idyllwild climbing. Having 400 feet of rope strewn across multiple pitches makes passing difficult and it's a bit rude to ask others behind you to "go somewhere else" because you insist on climbing as a group of 5. My sense is that you come from a place with a difference climbing ethic, so just wanted to offer some thoughts as to what is considered normal here (and at most popular crags in NA). Jun 13, 2023

[Hide Comment] Gear: Standard double rack to #3 and a single #4. Bring a 5 if you want, you'll use it but you don't need it.

Followed Iain Macdonald's beta breakdown since we left the guidebook at home. worked pretty well mostly, with just a little downtime for route finding.

pretty cool route i do recommend. the offwidth in the corner is pretty sick and the upper portion can be protected with a #4, but a number 5 wouldn't go unused. Sep 11, 2023

[Hide Comment] May 3 2024 conditions!!

After this winter there is quite a bit of loose blocks and rocks all over this route. My partner and I took the weekday climbing opportunity to trundle multiple teetering death blocks that could drop onto parties during the weekend.

The large belay ledge below the offwidth/slot a pitch past the chimney is completely gone, leaving copious amounts of loose rock that still needs clearing. May 3, 2024

[Hide Comment] I know the exact spot. I've looked at that ledge with suspicion many times over the tears. So the whole thing just cut loose? That would have been something to see. May 16, 2024

[Hide Comment] Update as of mid-May: For the parts of the climb that are in good shape, this is a thrilling adventure. As Ross said, the giant ledge at the pitch 6 belay is now gone and in its place, a pile of choss. The party ahead of us showered us with rocks and sand (not their fault) so be cautious when setting out on this very popular route. There’s something about a rock to the teeth and an eye full of sand that distracts from the classic-ness of the route.

Also, there’s another large block that appeared to be ready to come loose halfway up pitch 5, if memory serves. Climbing without using that block makes a seemingly straightforward sequence less straightforward.

Pitches 1-4 are in great shape. And the roof move on 7 is a must do. May 20, 2024

[Hide Comment] Mid-June update: There is still a microwave size death block sitting on top of a refrigerator size death block at the belay below the overhang (top of P6) on the right side of the left crack/shallow dihedral you follow during P6. Do not build your anchor under those blocks...if/when they come loose, they will absolutely be deadly for anybody below. Build your anchor in the left crack. To reiterate what was said in earlier comments - avoid climbing this route if there is a party already on it...lots of rockfall potential if somebody above is careless. Jun 16, 2024

[Hide Comment] Seems like it's cleaned up quite a bit as of mid-Sept but still a ton of dirt around the old ledge. Some loose rocks here and there like everywhere else on the NW recess, and not sure what to make of the detached block that's above p4 (see posted photo).

Two options for the old ledge, can belay below it and run it up to the belay below the overhang. Or can belay above the old ledge to the right next to some shrubs (small stance) and run it above the roof to a belay and then finish with the short 4th class. The latter is more comfortable imo

I would suggest skipping the p1 anchors and running it to a small sandy ledge in the dihedral. It's way more comfortable. P1 anchor is about 40m depending on where you stand on the ground. Sep 19, 2024

[Hide Comment] Did this yesterday for the fifth time. The ledge is gone and that section still looks a little rough, but it is easy to navigate and it really doesn't detract from the climb. Still quite classic and despite some fragile holds here and there, it virtually climbs the same. Don't be deterred by the destruction. Oct 15, 2024