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Routes in (d) Northwest Recess
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Consolation Direct, The T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Consolation, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Constellation T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Edgehogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Error, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Farewell Horizontal T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gulp, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Incision, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Long Climb, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magical Mystery Tour T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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No Locals Allowed TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sahara Terror T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Snakes on Everything T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Souvenir, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Special K T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Sting, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Swallow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Three Hour Tour T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whodunit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wong Climb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | Joe Fitschen and Royal Robbins, September 1957, FFA: Tom Higgins and Bob Kamps, 1966 |
| Page Views: | 58,430 total · 256/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Feb 18, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
While the guide quotes 8 pitches it can easily be condensed to 5 pitches. The cracks on this climb are stunning and very straight forward. There is quite a variety from low angle laybacking to hand cracks and eventually a chimney. A crux lies at the exit to a chimney where you get a bomber fist jam and have to work your feet up and get out of the top of the chimney. There is one bolted belay and all the rest are gear anchors. There are at least 2 good belay ledges.
Protection
A standard rack will suffice, but a grey or purple camalot are helpful for those not comfortable running it out on this rather sustained climb. After going over the roof on the last pitch trend up right on slabby ground to the top. Meandering cracks will lead you to the top of Tahquitz. Alternatively, simply follow the crack that trends slightly left to the top.
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