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Party in Your Pants

5.8, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 338 votes
FA: Fred Stanley, 1966
Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Echo Basin > Sunshine Wall > (e) Near End (aka Twi…

Description

Party in your Pants ascends a pair of parallel crack systems just left of Easy Off. Stem and jam your way up the steep corners and past a series of wavy bulges, which provide the crux moves. Fairly continuous 5.8 climbing.

Gear

Bring gear to 3". All sizes from small TCUs to 2s and 3s will find placements but the majority is hand size cams. Haul up lots of it if leading at your limit.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Party in your pants
[Hide Photo] Party in your pants
Photo credit to Adam Brown
[Hide Photo] Photo credit to Adam Brown
Film shot by Dano.
[Hide Photo] Film shot by Dano.
Sustained and consistent 5.8
[Hide Photo] Sustained and consistent 5.8
Party in Your Pants
[Hide Photo] Party in Your Pants
Yours truly at the crux of the left crack.
[Hide Photo] Yours truly at the crux of the left crack.
Party In Your Pants
[Hide Photo] Party In Your Pants
Super fun route, east to protect, great rests all along the way...
[Hide Photo] Super fun route, east to protect, great rests all along the way...
Near the top of PIYP. Great climb!
[Hide Photo] Near the top of PIYP. Great climb!
Party in your pants (5.8)
[Hide Photo] Party in your pants (5.8)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ScottH
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Having somehow managed to introduce this route without a description, I'll put it in here. Party in your Pants ascends a pair of parallel crack systems just left of Easy Off. Stem and jam your way up the steep corners and past a series of wavy bulges, which provide the crux moves. Fairly continuous 5.8 climbing. Bring gear to 3". Feb 9, 2006
Michiel Zuidweg
Seattle
 
[Hide Comment] A great sustained 5.8 trad climb. I would recommend doubling up on mid sized cams and bring one or two micro cams. Leave the small nuts, I never found a use for them. However, since I ran out of mid cams, I stacked two large stoppers. Great hand jams, a few stem rests, and the bulges do provide the crux moves. Apr 21, 2006
atfarley farley
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This is one of my favorites here, don't leave without tryin it. Sep 24, 2008
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
[Hide Comment] The book says there's one bolt that you can back up with a 4" piece, but there were three equalized chains when I got to the anchor yesterday. Awesome fun by the way. A romp.

I found that the cracks took a wide variety of gear the entire way up. I was saving most of my wider gear because I thought I'd read it widens up at the top, but the crack undulates enough that you can really take a basic rack to 3" if you're conservative and creative. Plenty of nut placements, unlike Michiel I used my small nuts and they felt bomber. Apr 10, 2012
Kevin N.
Wenatchee
[Hide Comment] if running pleasure laps on this fun climb, try just the left crack...no stems. a good little pure jamming jaunt. Dec 20, 2013
John Guy
Vancouver, Washington
 
[Hide Comment] Mid-sized hexes also worked perfectly on this route Nov 16, 2015
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Super fun!!! Great feeling of exposure for a cinco ocho! Definitely bring lots of mid sized gear if this is your limit. ENJOY Apr 27, 2016
Crag Turkey
Liberty Wells, UT
 
[Hide Comment] So many places to plug gear, in one excellent pitch. Must do!!! Jun 1, 2016
Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Stellar, sustained but very secure 5.8 climbing. Plenty of options for pro on the way up. 9 of 10 pieces were in the right crack, so no worries about having to extend them much. Bring your big stoppers and mid-sized gear. Each undulation provides a 5.8 crux, but the jams and stems are secure enough to pull through with ease. Jun 19, 2016
Isaac
Portland
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I guess you could say the climbing moves are sustained at the grade, but there are also rests everywhere you want them. Left crack is generally wider, and right is narrower. Look right of you run out of big gear (or vice versa) Jun 20, 2019
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] If you don't trust your jams (which I don't), this route is absolutely terrifying at the bulges. Mar 2, 2020
Steven R
Snoqualmie, WA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] So fun! Such a great 5.8 Mar 5, 2022
Jon Ingram
washington
 
[Hide Comment] I thought hexes / cowbells were obsolete until I led this, but I Used 3! Now I’m a real trad guy. I left my smallest gear at the base, but there was actually places for gear of all sizes. Flaring cracks makes it interesting for cams though Nov 5, 2022
Mitchell McAuslan
Spokane, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Pretty long route, bring extra gear if 5.8 trad is pushing your limits. Great jamming and plenty of rest spots. Jan 31, 2023