Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in North Face
|
Lardbutt S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Lower North Face S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Rocket in My Pocket S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Future Shock S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Cataract Corner S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Jim Thornburg, 1994 |
| Page Views: | 3,496 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Feb 6, 2006 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
This is a short and powerful sport route up the N face of the Monolith. There is some loose or hollow rock on the route, but over the years, since the late 90's, nothing significant has come off so it is pretty solid. Long moves to start followed by powerful movement on small holds up the butt feature.
Start by stemming up a left facing corner formed by the wall and an adjacent block. Traverse left onto the face with some very long reaches and up to a point just below the butt feature. This first bit is very physical but on pretty good holds. Move in the roof with some underclings then up the short left facing corner/arete feature with hard moves off of much smaller holds. Finish this section with a tough move to a perfect 4 finger square knob at the top of the corner. From this point a few long but easier moves that require good foot work take you to the top and the anchors.
Start by stemming up a left facing corner formed by the wall and an adjacent block. Traverse left onto the face with some very long reaches and up to a point just below the butt feature. This first bit is very physical but on pretty good holds. Move in the roof with some underclings then up the short left facing corner/arete feature with hard moves off of much smaller holds. Finish this section with a tough move to a perfect 4 finger square knob at the top of the corner. From this point a few long but easier moves that require good foot work take you to the top and the anchors.
Protection
5 Bolts to a bolted anchor and a stick clip. The landing under the high first bolt is pretty bad so a stick clip is a really nice thing to have. If you don't have a stick with you it is possible to climb up above where the route traverses and reach down and left to clip the first bolt.
Location
On the short north face of the Monolith starting out of a pit between the trail and the wall. You will see an obvious small roof that curves to a left facing corner about half way up the wall, the route starts down and right in a corner between the wall and another block. Moves up and left of the "butt" and back right slightly to finish.
6 Comments