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Open Book
5.9,
Trad, 490 ft (148 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3.7 from 551
votes
FA: John Mendenhall and Harry Sutherland, September 1947 FFA: Royal Robbins and Don Wilson, 1952
California
> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Tahquitz Rock
> (h) Open Book Area
Description
This three pitch beauty ascends a very obvious dihedral.
1) The first few moves off the deck are exciting and lead to an enjoyable first belay in a little nook.
2) The second pitch contains the business. You layback a 4" crack for 60+ feet to gain a belay either inside a little cave or right after depending on what gear you have left.
3) Pull the roof out of the alcove if that's where you set your belay, and continue up the dihedral in the left-side crack, much less steep and quite a bit easier than pitches 1 and 2. Eventually cross the slab and continue up to climb the deceptively easy roof on the right side. Top out and hike to the top of Tahquitz on easy 3rd class. Then you can hike out.
Protection
Standard rack with a doubles in the 3" - 4" range. The crack gets too wide for an old # 4 (purple) camalot but you can easily run it a bit to a placement higher up.
[Hide Photo] Coming up pitch one, prior to riding the horn flake like a saddle
[Hide Photo] Party of two on the second pitch of Open Book, as seen from the true horn on "Traitor Horn". Bolted belay of "The Edge" visible on the lower left.
[Hide Comment] FA - Royal Robins. The first 5.9 in the country, it a classic and must do. For the 2nd pitch there is a number of ways to get through it. The layback options, less secure and harder to place gear, not the options I would take. The next option is to stem it in the wide section then finish with your crack climbing skills. Or just grovel up the offwidth, it secure and is very short.
Feb 9, 2006
[Hide Comment] I personally think that this route was harder than 5.9. Also do not climb this route unless you have big cams (think Size 4 BD)and at least 3-5 of them. This is based on Beta from other climbers since I did not get past the first pitch because of other climbers warning us to bail since we had 1 #3 BD cam. The rap off the first pitch was sketchy as well. The rap rings were hanging off a chock stone from webbing that has seen better days. It was a good route though, just come prepared and you will have fun.
UPDATE In response to Murf - In my defense on the decent back to the car I started coughing up blood, had some kind of weird lung infection that put me in the hospital the next morning. So that is why I probably rated it higher than most. 2nd - the gear beta was given to me by climbers below who had just completed the route. However I do need to get back up there and give the route another go and I am sure I'd probably change the grade back to 5.9...
So for anyone coughing up blood with a weird lung infection this route will feel like 10a/b just FYI :)
Nov 22, 2006
[Hide Comment] veedublr - you give it 3 stars and a rating of 5.9 when you didn't even do the crux pitch. You rate it 5.9 but you don't think it's 5.9?
You are lucky you bailed, if you need 3-5 cams in the #4 BD range for this route, you shouldn't attempt to climb it.
Nov 22, 2006
[Hide Comment] From a historical gear perspective, I went out and specifically bought one whopping 3.5 WC Friend. Kind of hysterical, in that I placed early during the second pitch, retrieved it and placed a bit further up, and then gave up on placing any more gear until the belay. With a total arm-bar near the top of this "run-out" pitch, I felt secure enough, especially considering the options. As recommended, two #4 Camalots would be perfect for this climb.
Dec 19, 2006
[Hide Comment] The standard 5.9 that all other 5.9's are based on. The first pitch is a little hard to protect after that the gear is great. Standard rack plus one #4 BD Cam.
Jan 2, 2007
[Hide Comment] The notion that you need a bunch of #4 Camalots and larger to do this route is complete nonsense.
My rack consisted of a set of Clogs to #4 (same as friends) plus Green and Red Camalots, 2 Yellow Camalots, and one Blue Camalot. The only piece I wish I had more of was the Yellow.
Many of the places that are wide have small cracks nearby. Sometimes you can get a smaller placement by going deeper. The places that only take really large gear are easy and can be run out.
This route was very difficult for me, so you can't say I was running it out because it was easy.
Jul 28, 2008
[Hide Comment] Brian, gear recommendations are just that. Calling someone else's "complete nonsense" seems benighted at best. You did the route using what you thought was safe, and thats ok. But moreover, you said you employed the #4 Friend equivalent, which interestingly is a only touch smaller than a #4 Camalot.
Jul 28, 2008
[Hide Comment] I now can go through my head of all of the other "5.9" routes I've done and see if they are true 5.9's or not. I can also give more respect to some of those climbs and revel in the fact that I have just completed a truly historical route.
May 26, 2009
[Hide Comment] Did this route today with Larry S. and loved it! Great route requiring a variety of techniques. I thought that the first pitch was the crux to be sure. The ten feet or so before I reached the flake were wild! Larry and I both jammed the second pitch and thought it was secure and casual.
May 29, 2010
[Hide Comment] Did this today. Thought one #4 Camalot was plenty. A few burly moves on the first pitch, but the second felt more sustained. Climbed it a lb with jams for gear placements. Fun route.
Jun 5, 2010
[Hide Comment] combine pitches 1 and 2 for quite possibly the best pitch in idyllwild... stellar i tell ya... you won't find a better 5.9 pitch anywhere...
Aug 3, 2010
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! The start had a little spice, but the rest was really well protected. I agree with Fossana that, while the first pitch may have had the crux move, the second was way more sustained.
With all that I've heard about this climb I was expecting it to be harder. As far as the grade, this actually did feel like 5.9. Not the softest 5.9, but not the stoutest either. Go figure. :)
I brought 2 #4s as recommended, and it was more than enough. I placed both of them on every pitch, but that was more because I didn't want to carry them than because they were necessary. I think it would have protected just fine with 1 number 4, as there always seemed to be other options. If anything, I'd say bring an extra #2.
Sep 19, 2010
[Hide Comment] finally lead this route, it is awesome,and requires almost all climbing techniques. two number fours if this is at your level will be appreciated unless a thirty footer is ok. also, one number three and three number twos. This will make it seem like a sport route but you can always skip a placement if you feel the need to run it out to feel cool. Better to have it and not place it than to not have it if you need it.
May 16, 2011
[Hide Comment] I've been climbing for a year and only leading for a few months and this has been on my 'someday' list for a (relatively) long time. Showed up to the base today with my friend, Kurt, kind of expecting to maybe lead the 3rd pitch. Instead, I led the first pitch and ran it out half way through the second until running out of gear. Kurt led the now abbreviated 2nd pitch and I led the 3rd. Wow! Better and scarier and harder than I thought it would be.
As for gear--I really wish I had 6 #4 Camalots! But the 5.6 friction run-out was kind of cool!
I believe you could link pitch 1 and 2 with a 70 meter rope--maybe even a 60--with more judicious/sparse gear placement (I was really gripped a few times).
Sep 28, 2011
[Hide Comment] This is absolute classic! Good belays, bomber gear in a striking dihedral. A must do.
On P2 I plugged a hex at the last good stance and laid it back to the alcove. There's one last rest stance before the top. I thought laying it back was by far the easiest way to do this.
DONT BELAY IN THE ALCOVE! Your rope will push the gear into the crack while you climb P3. It's been mentioned to traverse right after the alcove but I just pulled around the roof and set an excellent hanging belay.
P3 will still stick with you with a no hands traverse to the right and there are bolted anchors after you exit the final tight chimney.
Oct 22, 2011
[Hide Comment] I was fortunate enough to be raised in Idyllwild. Of all the climbs in the area this one held our attention as we climbed it atleast twice a month for years. All the "hard" moves on p1 have the pro where you need it. Look for good stoppers on the left wall before the crux flake. Bomber! As a side note.. Swinging to hard for the top of the flake has caused shoulder injuries. I once "dislocated" my shoulder while underclinging the flake! Popped it back in and finished the pitch. It sucked!
Feb 21, 2012
[Hide Comment] After climbing this I have a whole new found respect for those old guys in there tennis shoe that put up the FA on this sort of route. A must do climb! As for gear doubles or even triples in the BD 3 is nice, and a 4 is a good thing to have.
Apr 10, 2012
[Hide Comment] Definitely a classic climb. It combines all sorts of styles up a very distinct and interesting route. Definitely takes some wide gear as everyone else has been saying.
Jun 13, 2012
[Hide Comment] Completely amazing line. Rich in history and filled with unique features like the elephant ear on the first pitch gaining it and standing upon it may give you slight flashbacks of Traitor Horn. The third pitch has a heroic 5.4 Roof (take that Gunks!) that leads to a slight squeeze chimney. Then out onto a heady slab with a few friction moves that will prepare you for Suicide. Pleasant belay stations: For the second pitch belay, clip a bong older than you and add a couple of pieces. Third pitch belay: After traversing out under a small roof (fun!) at the end of the second pitch you do a couple of lie back moves to gain a small obvious belay ledge. If you don't have extra hand sized pieces for the left side, don't stress as you can set up a belay on the right side using a couple of nuts and a couple of TCU's.
Starting the second pitch, getting into that huge dihedral and looking up had my jaw wide open. Beautiful 4" crack. I'm not the biggest fan of wide cracks and admittedly this has become one of my favorite climbs I've ever done. Maybe because I was too caught up worrying about gear and stout wider crack climbing. I just wasn't expecting it to be so good. There isn't a single thing I'd change on this whole climb. Doubles up to #4 C4 is the ideal rack. You have to do it.
Aug 14, 2012
[Hide Comment] I climbed this today for the first time and would like to confirm generationfourth's gear and belay beta. The only thing I'll add is that if you have a #4 and a #5 instead of two #4's this will also work. Combining pitches 1 and 2 sounds amazing but you had better bring a lot of gear! Also, if you want to rappel instead of doing the walkoff, be aware that the bottom 80 feet of the second rap is a free hanging rappel. I think the friction descent is probably the best way to go.
May 19, 2013
[Hide Comment] I can't think of too many places a #4 is really needed, and definitely not a #5. there is always a spot nearby that a #3 would work just fine. the first pitch is different character and gear than second pitch. the original pitches are rather short too, so you really don't need extra gear to combine the 2 pitches. just a normal rack for more normal length pitches.
a 60m rope will just work fine... barely... if your knot is just right...
Jun 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] P1 - I used a pink tricam off the bottom, and slung the flake out right as a directional for my second. Definitely cruxy getting to the ear, but pulling over the ear is easy and has bomber gear.
P2 - Lieback, jam, it's all good. I went around the roof and belayed at the small ledge. #1 and #2 camalots for gear on the left, or finger size gear on the right.
P3 - Fun. The slab move is straightforward if you are used to Tahquitz/Suicide slab. A little chimney action is useful to establish yourself on the good holds for the slab.
Gear: Set of nuts, one set of finger sized cams, doubles #.5-#4 camalot. I had a #3.5 camalot as well which I happily used. A third #2 camalot is useful for the belays.
Oct 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] I have eyeballed this many times while walking down. My gf and I climbed it yesterday and I am still smiling from it. Read other comments and bring what you feel is safe. Two #4's are great and mentally three #4's would be awesome! The last 20 feet of p2 will get your heart rate up. I lie backed and bumped a #4 a good 5-6 times. Take peoples advice and belay up and right outside the cave on p2. Extra #1 and #2's won't go unused.
Does anyone know about he rap route here? Is it 2 rope repel or is there multiple anchors for a single 70?
Mar 9, 2014
[Hide Comment] I tried climbing the crack to the right at the start of pitch two and was spit out about twenty feel off of the belay. Anyone have an idea of what this variation might be rated?
Mar 10, 2014
[Hide Comment] Classic 5.9. Five years back, we climbed this after doing Whodunnit in the morning. As we racked up, this mystical old timer appears and suggested a #3 in this pod on the way to the crack, you know, in case of a fall the leader and belayer wouldn't go tumbling down a slab. Nice. So my partner leads off, a wild gust of wind rips through, startling him enough that he yells and I take him up real good, pulling him off the wall. The #3 held, his on-sight didn't. After the first pitch rumbling clouds came in. I ran up the lieback in a hurry, then topped out in the rain. Yikes.
Sep 3, 2014
[Hide Comment] really beautiful looking piece of rock, and great climbing too. i thought the second pitch was about as good as it gets. the first pitch has a harder move, but get ahold of that big flake and its over. the third pitch isnt as great but who cares? topping out the easy chimney is a cool way to finish up. this climb and really the taquitz/suicide area as a whole made me want to move cross country and live in idyllwild, amazing scenery and awesome rock. jealous of the guy who grew up there! oh yeah...having two #4s made me feel alot better than if i had had only one.
Nov 16, 2014
[Hide Comment] I think the quality of this route is overhyped. The line has great history and is visually awesome, but the climbing is just okay. Two easy boulder problems on pitch 1 surrounded by rambling climbing. The "money pitch" is a right side in blue collar 5.9 grunt. Cool moves around the roof to hiking up a ramp. Classic for the history only.
Jun 11, 2015
[Hide Comment] Finally I got to climb this classic! I was a bit nervous from the comments saying it was harder than 5.9, but when I got on it, I never did a move that was harder than a .9. Super fun climb, the crux before the flake on the first pitch is very well protected. Second pitch I laybacked instead of jammed, and it felt easier at around .8. One of my favorite routes on Tahquitz!
Sep 8, 2015
[Hide Comment] Climbed this for my second time this past weekend. Dark clouds were rolling in so my (less experienced) partner opted to give me all three pitches in the interest of time.
For the P2 crux, one BD#4 will keep you real safe, especially if you wait to place it. You can always walk it a bit if things get scary. Once you climb around the roof, there is good belay spot on the right that takes smaller gear and allows you to watch as your partner liebacks up the crux, skipping all the fun offwidth jamming, which is the best part of the climb (dammit, Melody).
All three pitches have great value at some point, with fun moves and good rock. Definitely worth doing!
Jun 20, 2016
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route again yesterday, the plan was to do something around the northwest recess or on the west face but there was still quite a bit of snow at the base. My girlfriend and I decided the open book would be the best bet and made our way. Upon arriving to the base we noticed a bouquet of flowers, stuffed into a crack at the bottom of the dihedral. We both wondered why it was there and made up stories that made sense. Had someone fallen? Or had someone passed that loved this route? Had it been a proclamation of love, or romance? Simply a memorial for a long lost friend, lover, or partner?
I thought about this a lot while climbing the route. It was a beautiful day, and we never even heard, let alone saw another person. It felt magical, as climbing often does, but still it felt a little different.
We were driving home from lunch with my family today, talking about potential names for my soon to be little crusher nephew. I mentioned "Royal is such a bitchin' name, and a name like Royal Steed? C'mon!" Samantha spoke up, " I think Royal Robbins passed away the other day, I forgot to tell you." Suddenly the flowers made sense. A simple memorial to one of the greatest pioneers that climbing will ever know.
[Hide Comment] Climbed this yesterday 4/09/17 in memory of RR (RIP). No one on the formation, felt surreal, imagining climbing this in the old days. Perfect weather, perfect climb, couldnt ask for a better day and climb.
Used two BD#4, two BD #3 (one was stuck) and nuts. Great protection. If you rap, a 70m rope will get you to the anchor right as you run out of rope. Awesome rap. Replaced webbing with my chalkbag sling and rap rings on last rap since webbing was super worn out and worn out. Decided to rap instead of friction route because why not.
Apr 10, 2017
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on Monday April 17. Hardest individual move is probably getting to the flake on pitch one, but pitch two is the sustained crux. I don't think I've ever climbed anything so sustained as this (in the 5.10 and under routes). It's pretty Burly. Bringing 2 #4 C4 for pitch two was useful. I used one #4 on pitch 1, but you can do without.
Apr 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] Soooooo sweet. I'd prefer an extra #2 and #3 over the #4. IF you climb past the roof to build the second belay, it's nice to have #2's. Use up your #3's on the pitch, and if you really want the #4 that will sew it up.. Layback is great for fast progress, but offwidthing is great for secure rests. Get on it!
May 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] Brought gear to BD 3, didnt place a single 3, bringing any BD 4s (let alone multiple) us unnecessary. Passive pro worked wonders on this route, fantastic small-medium hex placements and nuts galore. Layback pitch is fantastic, hand jamming up it sounds absolutely miserable.
Jan 4, 2018
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route on Oct 6. One other party in front of us on a beautiful 60F day. Pitch 1 was crux but manageable. Besides a few awkward moves, just when I was getting nervous I was able to look around and find something. Super fun & varied climbing. P2 straight forward layback turning into jams. Brought two BD #3, old BD #3.5, BD #4, old BD #4.5. Didn't need the 4.5. Extra #2 could be useful. I placed several large nuts & could've even placed my hexes. Felt very well protected (except for the few p3 slab moves).
Was harassed by a drone. Tried to ignore it best I could and focus on the climb. It would've been hard to communicate with my climbing partner if it was necessary.
Oct 7, 2018
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route again as a crack rather than a lie back and it is the superior way to go. Leave the #4 at home as it's not necessary you can jam 3" gear in the back of the "wide" section of the crack. Fun route and agree don't belay in the cave. There are several nice ledges after the cave that eat gear.
Oct 21, 2018
[Hide Comment] I climbed the more direct start in the corner, looks like Eric Santos did a few years back did as well, I've heard rumors it's in the 11's and R, not sure if that's right or if anybody else has climbed that variation?
Mar 20, 2019
[Hide Comment] Did this last weekend and had a phenomenal time. Brought three 4's and a 5. The 5 was by no means necessary, but i'm happy to have brought it, mostly as a directional to back up the natural-pro anchor I made after P1. Partner and I jammed the P2 crack so didn't need all three 4's, but if you're going to lieback it on lead, I would say bring a bunch of 4's so you can just slam 'em near the mouth of the crack and boogie. Definitely agree that this is "blue-collar" 5.9--nothing fancy, just a lot of grunt.
Apr 29, 2019
[Hide Comment] If someone wants to bring 4-5 number 4 cams on this route, let them and be nice about it! Better yet, bring 10 and French free the whole dang thing!
Jul 26, 2020
[Hide Comment] Did a J, hiked out to tahquitz for the first time, saw open book, and hopped on it. I couldn't resist starting in the corner, which I'll admit felt pretty full-on for 5.9, especially onsight soloing. Didn't feel like 5.11, but didn't feel like 5.9 either. Rad bit of rock!
Aug 7, 2020
[Hide Comment] Definition of classic! Nuts, singles from .1-.4 and doubles from .5-4 made for an enjoyable safe experience. Don’t let the slab runout scare you away from this climb, it’s over quickly.
Jun 4, 2021
[Hide Comment] Fun line! The beginning is hero moves on face holds (place a piece jeez). P2- money... can be jammed rather than laybacking it @ 5.9 (left side in). Take 2x BD 3's and 4's, you can bump a 4 all the way up the wide if you prefer getting weird. Belay just right & above the roof. Finish up top and rap off right 3x 70m raps.
Jul 5, 2021
[Hide Comment] Pitch one has the Boulder start with protection right off the deck. Climb past the epic flake and belay a couple feet above it in an alcove. There is a piton fixed there to help with your belay. Climb pitch two all the way to the roof where a lost arrow can be found on the left side of the roof. Number 2 and number ones can be used to build an anchor on the right side of the roof. Having the anchor on the right helps with the rope drag on the last pitch. You can traverse out of the roof and place a number three or number two right away.
Oct 10, 2021
[Hide Comment] Such an incredible line. Found the mental cruxes to be the start due to ground-fall prospect and getting around the roof at the top of P2. The slab at the top of P3 is also a mental crux if you stay in the corner but feels pretty mellow if you traverse right lower.
For me the technical crux was just below the elephant ear flake on P1. There are comments about the corner start being harder than 5.9 but it felt 5.7 to me as I could reach a jug fully stretched out after a couple moves (I’m 6’0”).
I laybacked about 8 feet on the lower section of P2, but I can’t imagine trying to layback the whole pitch as that seems it would be too physical for an old out of shape dude like me and too insecure with marginal purchase for feet on the 30’ steepest section. The jams are super good for most of P2 so why not use them?
I stayed away from this too long due to the comments about it being stiff. It’s the definition of 5.9 and the grade still fits. It protects the whole way with the exception of the start and finish. I have an unhealthy fear of heights so I sewed up P2 with two 3s, four 4s and a 5 (just placed and didn’t bump anything) along with a few smaller pieces - let the comments about not needing big gear begin.
[Hide Comment] Lots of comments here so some of this may be redundant. I found traversing the slab higher up the corner more appealing than traversing lower down. Absolutely save #1 and #2 cams for the P2 anchor if ending that pitch after the alcove roof; without those I had one precise, decent .75, a poor .75, and stacked nuts. We had doubles from .4 - 4 plus blue and black Totems. I would take 3x #1 and #2 and only one .4 and .5 (possibly none if paring down).
Rappel beta: If you have two 70m ropes, you can reach the ground in a single rappel from the top anchor. Rap as far climber's right as you can. By the time you see the next anchor (there are two options) you can also see if your ends hit the ground. Please, tie knots if doing this. It works but is close.
[Hide Comment] Fun route and definitely worth climbing for the history alone. Offset nuts were useful. Doubles to camalot #3. Can get by with singles of 3 and 4 if you've got the cajones for it. 70m was helpful since the first rap took us to the end of our rope.
Jun 27, 2022
[Hide Comment] Hey everyone! I was climbing Open Book yesterday n a thunderstorm came in n while we were coming down the rope got stuck so we had to leave it behind. We had to go home n get gear so we decided to retrieve it the next morning. We got to the route at 7am n it was gone. I didn't think someone would retireve it but i would really appreciate it if i can get my gear back. I know it's a long shot but it was a 70mm green rope, two slings, two carabineers and a offset. It would mean the world to me. Here's my info my name's Azalea my number is 7146319218. Thank you keeping my fingers crossed.
Jul 31, 2022
[Hide Comment] What a line! Did a mix of layback and jamming/OW. I brought a 4 and a 5 and this was plenty for the second pitch. Two 4's would have been fine to keep it mellow too. As Chris said, bring one #4 if you're ballsy. Crux for me was just below the P1 flake.
Sep 19, 2022
[Hide Comment] Open book was featured on the cover of either Rock and Ice or Climbing magazine years ago. Does anyone know the year and issue? I would love to get a copy!
Oct 3, 2022
[Hide Comment] Beautiful route. Was not sure which was the proper start, decided on the direct corner goes better than it looks. Crux move on first pitch before flake is short. Second pitch is amazing and quite secure climbing the crack. I could see how a #5 would make the route pretty comfy if your unsure but 4s work just fine.
May 29, 2023
[Hide Comment] Like many climbers, I was drawn to The Open Book by the history, but the climbing didn't disappoint when we did this in January '81. Since this was America's first 5.9--- 1952 no less---- we expected an easier time. Besides I was an Eastern climber from the Gunks, and I'd heard two dozen times back there about how the climbing ratings in CA were so much easier. Not true! In any case Ben Valdez and I found The Open Book to be a good challenge. Quite an accomplishment for Robbins et al in 1952. He didn't have perlon rope, EBs, chalk and hexes like us! Not just history, but good climbing as well. Loved it!
Jul 21, 2023
[Hide Comment] If you're a budding 5.9 climber or want to make the climb comfy beta: Rack: Single .2-.5, double .75, triple 1-4 I only recommend taking triples in the hand size pieces because the anchors on top of pitch 1 and 2 take them well. You can go with doubles 1-3 fine, but save at least two of those sizes for the anchors.
Pitch 1: Boulder moves right off the ground protects really well with various size cams in many of those slots. Once you get the first good stance a 0.2 fits perfect into a downward piton scar (can't see it from the ground) before you make the committing moves over the bulge into the corner. I said before you need a 4 for pitch 1 but after doing this again I would leave it with follower.
Pitch 2: not much beta needed. climb the crack. first time I did it i mostly laid back. This time I climbed right side in and it felt so much easier. Save a #1 and #2 or #1 and #3 for the anchors. I only built a 2 piece anchor here and felt pretty comfy with it. Both super bomber pieces.
Pitch 3: climb the chimney for a bit until you get to black horizontal dike and traverse there. My partner used the dike as hands, I climbed above it and used it as a feet, but once I got more into the slab I had to step down
Jul 28, 2023
[Hide Comment] Climb this yesterday. It was my limit. Jan Tarculus beta was very helpful, although did not find much protection before reaching the corner. If place a cam on the horizontal slot would lost the handhold. I guess it would be a good trade off now think of it. Have to call a couple takes. Pack three #3, and three #4 still at some point I wish I have a #5 and an extra #4. Bumping is kind of hard. Pitch 3 is still very engaging and hard with the traverse.
Sep 30, 2024
[Hide Comment] These clowns saying they didn't use any #3's and saying a single #4 is plenty are disingenuous sandbagging tools.
Triple #3 and double #4 will be very appreciated by plenty of folks.
Fantastic climb, every pitch is a blast. Treating P2 as the off-width it is makes it a breeze with ample rest rather than laybacking it. Plus let's be honest, your off-width technique can use some practice :)
Oct 13, 2024
Avg: 3.7 from 551
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Superior
Big Bear Lake
Oakdale, CT
UPDATE In response to Murf - In my defense on the decent back to the car I started coughing up blood, had some kind of weird lung infection that put me in the hospital the next morning. So that is why I probably rated it higher than most. 2nd - the gear beta was given to me by climbers below who had just completed the route.
However I do need to get back up there and give the route another go and I am sure I'd probably change the grade back to 5.9...
So for anyone coughing up blood with a weird lung infection this route will feel like 10a/b just FYI :) Nov 22, 2006
You are lucky you bailed, if you need 3-5 cams in the #4 BD range for this route, you shouldn't attempt to climb it. Nov 22, 2006
Tucson, AZ
Big Bear Lake
Been a long time since I've done this but I didn't have a big friend or the BD copy. Sep 14, 2007
Boulder
Costa Mesa, CA
My rack consisted of a set of Clogs to #4 (same as friends) plus Green and Red Camalots, 2 Yellow Camalots, and one Blue Camalot. The only piece I wish I had more of was the Yellow.
Many of the places that are wide have small cracks nearby. Sometimes you can get a smaller placement by going deeper. The places that only take really large gear are easy and can be run out.
This route was very difficult for me, so you can't say I was running it out because it was easy. Jul 28, 2008
Highlands Ranch, CO
Pagosa Springs
Northern Nevada
leeds, ut
Use Ignore Button
Boise, ID
With all that I've heard about this climb I was expecting it to be harder. As far as the grade, this actually did feel like 5.9. Not the softest 5.9, but not the stoutest either. Go figure. :)
I brought 2 #4s as recommended, and it was more than enough. I placed both of them on every pitch, but that was more because I didn't want to carry them than because they were necessary. I think it would have protected just fine with 1 number 4, as there always seemed to be other options. If anything, I'd say bring an extra #2. Sep 19, 2010
Philomath, or
climbing out left from the second belay, on to bookmark and then finishing traitor horn makes for a great variation to this route. Jan 29, 2011
Idyllwild, CA
As for gear--I really wish I had 6 #4 Camalots! But the 5.6 friction run-out was kind of cool!
I believe you could link pitch 1 and 2 with a 70 meter rope--maybe even a 60--with more judicious/sparse gear placement (I was really gripped a few times). Sep 28, 2011
On P2 I plugged a hex at the last good stance and laid it back to the alcove. There's one last rest stance before the top. I thought laying it back was by far the easiest way to do this.
DONT BELAY IN THE ALCOVE! Your rope will push the gear into the crack while you climb P3. It's been mentioned to traverse right after the alcove but I just pulled around the roof and set an excellent hanging belay.
P3 will still stick with you with a no hands traverse to the right and there are bolted anchors after you exit the final tight chimney. Oct 22, 2011
Idyllwild, Ca
As a side note.. Swinging to hard for the top of the flake has caused shoulder injuries. I once "dislocated" my shoulder while underclinging the flake! Popped it back in and finished the pitch.
It sucked! Feb 21, 2012
running springs Ca
As for gear doubles or even triples in the BD 3 is nice, and a 4 is a good thing to have. Apr 10, 2012
La Canada, CA
CA
Irvine, CA
Starting the second pitch, getting into that huge dihedral and looking up had my jaw wide open. Beautiful 4" crack. I'm not the biggest fan of wide cracks and admittedly this has become one of my favorite climbs I've ever done. Maybe because I was too caught up worrying about gear and stout wider crack climbing. I just wasn't expecting it to be so good. There isn't a single thing I'd change on this whole climb. Doubles up to #4 C4 is the ideal rack. You have to do it. Aug 14, 2012
Idyllwild, CA
Use Ignore Button
a 60m rope will just work fine... barely... if your knot is just right... Jun 6, 2013
Bend, OR
P2 - Lieback, jam, it's all good. I went around the roof and belayed at the small ledge. #1 and #2 camalots for gear on the left, or finger size gear on the right.
P3 - Fun. The slab move is straightforward if you are used to Tahquitz/Suicide slab. A little chimney action is useful to establish yourself on the good holds for the slab.
Gear: Set of nuts, one set of finger sized cams, doubles #.5-#4 camalot. I had a #3.5 camalot as well which I happily used. A third #2 camalot is useful for the belays. Oct 6, 2013
Lakewood
Does anyone know about he rap route here? Is it 2 rope repel or is there multiple anchors for a single 70? Mar 9, 2014
Reno
Oakland, CA
San Pedro, CA
Planet Earth
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Salt Lake City, UT
For the P2 crux, one BD#4 will keep you real safe, especially if you wait to place it. You can always walk it a bit if things get scary. Once you climb around the roof, there is good belay spot on the right that takes smaller gear and allows you to watch as your partner liebacks up the crux, skipping all the fun offwidth jamming, which is the best part of the climb (dammit, Melody).
All three pitches have great value at some point, with fun moves and good rock. Definitely worth doing! Jun 20, 2016
Oceanside, CA
Edmonds, WA
I would put more emphasis on #1s and #2s, I wish I had more of both of them, especially for the second half of P2. Nov 13, 2016
Citrus Heights
RIP Royal Robbins 2/4/35 - 3/13/17 Mar 16, 2017
Eldorado Springs
I thought about this a lot while climbing the route. It was a beautiful day, and we never even heard, let alone saw another person. It felt magical, as climbing often does, but still it felt a little different.
We were driving home from lunch with my family today, talking about potential names for my soon to be little crusher nephew. I mentioned "Royal is such a bitchin' name, and a name like Royal Steed? C'mon!" Samantha spoke up, " I think Royal Robbins passed away the other day, I forgot to tell you." Suddenly the flowers made sense. A simple memorial to one of the greatest pioneers that climbing will ever know.
Thanks for the memories RR. Mar 17, 2017
SLC, UT
Used two BD#4, two BD #3 (one was stuck) and nuts. Great protection. If you rap, a 70m rope will get you to the anchor right as you run out of rope. Awesome rap. Replaced webbing with my chalkbag sling and rap rings on last rap since webbing was super worn out and worn out. Decided to rap instead of friction route because why not. Apr 10, 2017
San Diego, Ca
San Diego, CA
Was harassed by a drone. Tried to ignore it best I could and focus on the climb. It would've been hard to communicate with my climbing partner if it was necessary. Oct 7, 2018
Wa
Golden, CO
Orange, Ca
Check out this awesome aerial footage of Taquitz and this beautiful first 5.9!
via: @walkaboutwilliams and @schreckmandoo :)
Thanks Royal Robins!!
youtu.be/ocs7Cv_t8zE May 20, 2019
Lassitude 33
Bishop
Tucson, AZ
San Diego, CA
Torrance, CA
San Diego
For me the technical crux was just below the elephant ear flake on P1. There are comments about the corner start being harder than 5.9 but it felt 5.7 to me as I could reach a jug fully stretched out after a couple moves (I’m 6’0”).
I laybacked about 8 feet on the lower section of P2, but I can’t imagine trying to layback the whole pitch as that seems it would be too physical for an old out of shape dude like me and too insecure with marginal purchase for feet on the 30’ steepest section. The jams are super good for most of P2 so why not use them?
I stayed away from this too long due to the comments about it being stiff. It’s the definition of 5.9 and the grade still fits. It protects the whole way with the exception of the start and finish. I have an unhealthy fear of heights so I sewed up P2 with two 3s, four 4s and a 5 (just placed and didn’t bump anything) along with a few smaller pieces - let the comments about not needing big gear begin.
Can’t wait to get back on it!!! Oct 18, 2021
Sacramento, CA
Rappel beta: If you have two 70m ropes, you can reach the ground in a single rappel from the top anchor. Rap as far climber's right as you can. By the time you see the next anchor (there are two options) you can also see if your ends hit the ground. Please, tie knots if doing this. It works but is close.
Oh, and it's a great climb. May 16, 2022
San Jose, CA
Los Angeles, CA
North County, San Diego
Louisville CO
San Diego, Ca
Rack: Single .2-.5, double .75, triple 1-4
I only recommend taking triples in the hand size pieces because the anchors on top of pitch 1 and 2 take them well. You can go with doubles 1-3 fine, but save at least two of those sizes for the anchors.
Pitch 1:
Boulder moves right off the ground protects really well with various size cams in many of those slots. Once you get the first good stance a 0.2 fits perfect into a downward piton scar (can't see it from the ground) before you make the committing moves over the bulge into the corner. I said before you need a 4 for pitch 1 but after doing this again I would leave it with follower.
Pitch 2: not much beta needed. climb the crack. first time I did it i mostly laid back. This time I climbed right side in and it felt so much easier. Save a #1 and #2 or #1 and #3 for the anchors. I only built a 2 piece anchor here and felt pretty comfy with it. Both super bomber pieces.
Pitch 3: climb the chimney for a bit until you get to black horizontal dike and traverse there. My partner used the dike as hands, I climbed above it and used it as a feet, but once I got more into the slab I had to step down Jul 28, 2023
Los Angeles, CA
California
Triple #3 and double #4 will be very appreciated by plenty of folks.
Fantastic climb, every pitch is a blast. Treating P2 as the off-width it is makes it a breeze with ample rest rather than laybacking it. Plus let's be honest, your off-width technique can use some practice :) Oct 13, 2024