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Routes in (h) Open Book Area
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Bibliography T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Glossary, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bookend, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hedgehog S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hedge, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bookworm, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Open Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Turn the Page T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bookmark T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Zig Zag T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flashback T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mechanic's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Torque Wrench T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Green Arch T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Trad, 490 ft (148 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | John Mendenhall and Harry Sutherland, September 1947 FFA: Royal Robbins and Don Wilson, 1952 |
| Page Views: | 63,826 total · 272/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Stefurak on Feb 3, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Introduction: This historic route was the first 5.9 established in America with the FFA credited to Royal Robbins and Don Wilson in 1952. It was led with hemp rope and tennis shoes with essentially no protection as pitons did not exist that were big enough for the wide cracks. Robbins clipped wooden wedges on the second pitch that had been used for aid 5 years previously in 1947. This continued a tradition of the very hardest wide crack free climbs being done at the time where the leader could not fall and essentially on-sight free soloed the first ascent. Very few climbs at the leading edge of difficulty are put up in this style today.
This three pitch beauty ascends a very obvious dihedral.
1) The first few moves off the deck are exciting and lead to an enjoyable first belay in a little nook.
2) The second pitch contains the business. You layback a 4" crack for 60+ feet to gain a belay either inside a little cave or right after depending on what gear you have left.
3) Pull the roof out of the alcove if that's where you set your belay, and continue up the dihedral in the left-side crack, much less steep and quite a bit easier than pitches 1 and 2. Eventually cross the slab and continue up to climb the deceptively easy roof on the right side. Top out and hike to the top of Tahquitz on easy 3rd class. Then you can hike out.
Photos
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