All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Cerberus Gendarme

Fails of Power

Name: Fails of Power
Rating: 3.6

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Cerberus Gendarme

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bernie Breakdown T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13
	Cave Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cherry Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Cynthia's Hand Job T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Dire Wolf T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Electrica T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Fails of Power T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Fat Hedral, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Flip of a Coin T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Intruder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Mean High Tide T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	No Holds Barred T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pussy Power > Penis Envy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Scarlet Begonias T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Squeeze Play T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Tales of Flails T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Touchstone Wall T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b C2
	Touchstone Wall (Free) T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

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Type:	Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Bill Feiges, Marius Marstad. March 1980
Page Views:	10,461 total · 46/month
Shared By:	Bekky on Jan 31, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Description

This crack is the prominent corner to the left of Scarlet Begonias. Most folks just climb to the chain anchors just above the flake, making the climb a 5.10b. The 5.11c comes past the first set of anchors and follows a finger crack over a small roof about 50 ft further.

It is fantastic! Perfect hands in the corner and then pulling the flake is a tad exposed but very fun. Very sustained classic crack climbing! Great route!

Note that all anchors were placed on lead.

Protection

Mostly #1s and #2s all the way. A .75 is handy above the flake. A #3 may fit just below the flake too. Smaller gear will be necessary if you climb the small section. Watch your rope drag; it's a little tricky. A few slings could be helpful. Two bomber bolt anchors with chains are at the top of both pitches.