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Routes in (s) Monkey Face
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Monkey Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Path of Totality T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Pioneer Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 |
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Monkey Off My Back S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rising Expectations T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Close Shave S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Just Do It S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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East Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2 |
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East Face Start T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spank the Monkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Spank The Monkey (Full) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R |
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Northwest Corner, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Backbone, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Northwest Passage (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Northwest Passage (Aid) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2 |
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West Face Crack (West Face P1) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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West Face (Aid) T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c C1 |
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Astro Monkey T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Moving in Stereo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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West Face Variation Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Monkey Farce T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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West Face Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bob McGown 1978. Free: Chris Jones, Bill Ramsey 4/1979 |
| Page Views: | 35,641 total · 152/month |
| Shared By: | Karsten Duncan on Jan 28, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This variation to the Pioneer Route is the most popular way to ascend the monkey face free. It is classic in its own right.
Begin up the Pioneer or West Face Variation routes up the Monkey. Monkey Space starts at the bottom of the aid bolt ladder pitch.
1st Pitch: 5.11a Begin at the ledge atop the first pitch of the pioneer route. Head directly to the left and then up into a cool cave on the west side of monkey face on well placed bolts.
2nd Pitch: 5.11b Move to the north side of the cave and move up on steep, powerful moves but positive edges for a few moves and then move up slab to the summit.
Descend as Pioneer route.
Begin up the Pioneer or West Face Variation routes up the Monkey. Monkey Space starts at the bottom of the aid bolt ladder pitch.
1st Pitch: 5.11a Begin at the ledge atop the first pitch of the pioneer route. Head directly to the left and then up into a cool cave on the west side of monkey face on well placed bolts.
2nd Pitch: 5.11b Move to the north side of the cave and move up on steep, powerful moves but positive edges for a few moves and then move up slab to the summit.
Descend as Pioneer route.
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