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> Central-W Casca…
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> (b) Toxic - Tang Area
Even Steven
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.7 from 275
votes
Routes in (b) Toxic - Tang Area
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Journey to the Other Side of the Bridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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View from the Bridge, The T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Toxic Shock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slapshot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Even Steven T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Even Steven 5.8 Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Geek Corners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Never Have I Ever Used A Stepstool T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stinkbug S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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ZAP! Right between the Eyes S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Roadside Floral Curtain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tang T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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TrainTruck T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Dan Lapeska, Dick Cilley |
| Page Views: | 12,657 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Lizzy Trower on Jan 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
The set of cracks on the face to the right of Toxic Shock heading straight up from the ledge. Fun moves, fairly consistent difficulty, and distinct reachy cruxes (at least for short people like myself) make this a great climb. Approach the area as for Toxic Shock and climb either of the starts for Toxic Shock to reach the ledge.
Protection
Standard trad rack, but with emphasis on smaller gear. You probably want a #2 and #3 camalot for the standard approach (as for toxic shock). For the actual climb, I use 2 green aliens, 1 blue TCU, 1 yellow alien, 1 grey alien, and 1 purple camalot. You want to have stuff in this range, maybe a couple extra of some sizes just in case.
Some History
This nice crack line was first discovered and cleaned by Steve Strong. He was planning to do it after finishing up Toxic Shock, but was scooped by Lepeska and Cilley. The route name seems to suggest that they were somehow "getting back" at him for something, but no such prior event had ever been suggested. The "even" may just refer to the two parallel cracks.
At any rate, we should thank Steve for doing the main work to establish this line.
At any rate, we should thank Steve for doing the main work to establish this line.
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