Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Nuclear Waste

5.10b, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 93 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

Cultural Resource Near Base: Please Be aware of your surroundings and look for evidence of those that came before you. Avoid climbing near petroglyphs to the right of the start of this climb.

An interesting series of cracks in a corner located midway between Pink Flamingo and Anasazi. The width goes from thin hands to hands to fingers to fists and back down to hands and thin hands. No real crux, though the .5 camalot section was the psychological highlight for me (but isn't it always?).

Protection

12 Pieces of the following sizes: Tips (x1), Off-fingers (x2), thin hands (x5), hands (x2), fists (x1), OW (x1).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Please avoid the right side of this climb. Left side is the actual climb, anywho!
[Hide Photo] Please avoid the right side of this climb. Left side is the actual climb, anywho!
In the corner between the trees
[Hide Photo] In the corner between the trees
Fun times! The beginning 0.75 crack goes for a ways
[Hide Photo] Fun times! The beginning 0.75 crack goes for a ways
Brian leading Nuclear Waste
[Hide Photo] Brian leading Nuclear Waste

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Grant Bryans
buena vista colorado
[Hide Comment] I enjoyed this route!!!! unique for the creek, while it doesn't have any true crux move or section, you will for sure feel the burn moving from one crack to another... Apr 21, 2006
Laurie Lambe
Cottonwood Heights, UT
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route yesterday and would like to pass along some helpful beta. If you are a mid-10 leader at The Creek like me, I would start on the left (not the right like it says in Doc Bloom's book). Move to the right when the crack starts getting real tight, then move back to the left at the next easier opportunity to do it (where the .75 splitter starts turning to the right). It's a great crack but starting on the right is kind of chossy and harder than it looks and certainly harder than 10-. Oct 21, 2006
Rob Kepley
Westminster, CO
[Hide Comment] Very fun route! Not your typical "robotic" climb. It gets a little weird in the sandy section. Feb 3, 2007
Tim M
none
  5.10
[Hide Comment] A bit of a sandbag at 10-. At least for Supercrack Buttress. Jan 15, 2012
Ty Gittins
bozeman
[Hide Comment] Did'nt find this thing to be sandy at all. great route! awkward in spots near the top where the cracks switch. definately a sandbag at 10- Apr 27, 2014
Lin Pearson
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] For the start just place a piece and commit to the lie-back for a move, until you get that first jam. It's way better than it looks! I stepped right where it made sense, and the finger crack above is really nice with great feet. A very atypical IC climb, but well worth it! I'd say 10- is accurate. Nov 30, 2015
Ralph Swansen
Boulder CO
  5.10
[Hide Comment] I did the right side start and really enjoyed it.
It is somewhat sandy stone but not terrible. There are two decent .75 placements before a very good #3 placement higher up. It seemed 5.10. Mar 23, 2021
tooTALLtim
Vanlife
 
[Hide Comment] Hard for me, because 0.75 aren't thin hands for me! Oct 17, 2022
MA D
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] Please avoid the right side of this climb. There is a cultural resource that has gotten progressively more chalked over the years. The left side is the better climbing! See photo if any issues. Oct 30, 2024