PRINT: Rock Climb Fondon't, Grand Junction Area

Fondon't

5.9, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 52 votes
FA: Brad Winters, 2003?
Colorado > Grand Junction… > Escalante Canyon > Interiors Wall Area

Access Issue: The Cabin Wall and the Island are both closed to climbing Details

The Cabin Wall and the Island are closed. In regard to the rest of the areas in Escalante "Continued use of this area relies on good stewardship and a relationship of trust with the landowner."

Respect local residents, cattle and wildlife by following the posted speed limit of 20 mph.
Minimize user impact by staying on established trails and roads.
Park off the road in established pull-offs or parking areas.
Pack out human waste and garbage.
Keep noise to a minimum.
Portions of Escalante Canyon are active ranching areas. Keep pets under leash control at all times.
No fires and no discharge of firearms.
Camp in established areas only. No camping on private property.

Description

The flake on the outside of the cave area, just right from the easy route.

I don't have FA information or route name but will be happy to add them.

Protection

I used a Bigbro to protect the start but a good spot is probably sufficient. Above this you'll need a standard rack - nothing unusual.

A modern wide rack of cams will work for the offwidth BD 4-7, then a finger sized piece or two for the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leon Islas starting the route.

So fun. A BD #7 is a bit tipped out at the bottom but gets better as you wiggle up.

"Well, that might hold a wet cat"...tipped out with mud on one side.

Brian Verhulst atop the Flake.

Leon near the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT

I started on the right side of this flake to avoid the wide section, then crossed to the left at mid-height. Still about the same rating. Very enjoyable climbing.
The stack of loose blocks on the top will rattle and rattle you. They may not last many more years, and I would not suggest ever putting a cam behind them. Apr 30, 2009

coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO

The right side had a nice, crumbling flake that I cleaned off. Glad I knocked on it first, because 1 downward pull was all it took to launch it off. Mar 29, 2010

Martin Harris

I also started on the right and crossed over due to a lack of Bigbros. It was fun, but wow this is one scary death boulder that will pop if some one tries to protect in it, and I would say the crux is the face moves from the right to left right at that flake but fun and worth doing. Sep 8, 2010

Brad Winters
Hudson, OH

5.8

I put up this cute, little route a long time ago (2003?) and called it Fondon't. At the time I had a penchant for things that leaned up against walls so it just had to be done. It adds to moderates in this area though. Oct 8, 2011

Jean Spencer
Boulder, CO

I also started in the right crack section and traversed left. These moves can be well protected with a #4 high in the right crack before stepping down and over onto the face. Apr 22, 2013

D Scott Clark
Chattanooga, TN

5.9+ R

Pretty sure that if you climbed the right side, you're not climbing the route. Climb the wide. It's why you're there. Oct 12, 2016

Samuel McNamee

5.9

We did the right side, we did a left side, and if you're into more boulder slab type, go up the center until it's completely blank, but you can get a fair amount of moves up the center. We did center on top rope obviously, since there is no gear to be placed, but there is definitely a very technical section on this beast. Overall, this area was super worth the time. May 4, 2018

Colton Lawson
Denver, CO

A #8 fits perfectly. Nov 27, 2022

Fern Gully
Colorado

5.9

Very fun climbing. That being said, the detached flake thing halfway up is a ticking time bomb. The top block below the anchor seems dubious. I would rate this thing as 5.skettttttchy. Oct 14, 2024