Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Coney Island
|
Aeromax S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Angry Dragon V7 7A+ |
|
Another Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
|
Badger Traverse, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Bait, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Coney Island Clipper S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Cyclone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Dampened Enthusiasm S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Der Letzte Zug S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
|
|
Die Reeperbahn S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Feeding the Beast S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Fire Patrol S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Fly Swatter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Fly Trap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Gagger S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
|
|
Gagger With A Bone S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Give the Dog a Bone S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Joy Ride S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Launch Code T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Lucky Strikes Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
New Fanatic S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
|
|
Pri-Moe T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Prong S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Quintet T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Reach of Faith, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Red Badger S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Runaway S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Sling Shot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Thunderbolt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Tickler T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Twist and Shout S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
|
|
Under the Boardwalk T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
|
|
Work It On Out S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b V6+ 7A |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Ivan Rezucha, Chuck Graves, 12/26/05 |
| Page Views: | 1,299 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Dec 25, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Another Way is a trad climb left of Runaway that follows a decent line of discontinuous thin cracks at the bottom and then obvious corners and cracks at the top to a tree on the skyline. However there is some loose rock, some lichen on the rock surface, and a couple of big thumper blocks that are scary given the possibility that no one has ever touched them. These factors, plus some sketchy gear at the bottom, lead me to give this a bomb rating. With some cleaning it might be a one-star route.
This is a possible first ascent; however, there was what seemed to be chalk in a pocket below a ceiling on the upper half. That point is reachable from Runaway. On the other hand, there were several very loose rocks on the lower half, and I had to excavate the dirt from several key gear placements. So perhaps someone has previously climbed the upper half, maybe while exploring where the top of Runaway should go.
Approach: walk right below the Lower Tier to its right side, then up an obvious climber's trail to the right side of the Upper Tier. The obvious right angling crack on the right of the crag is the start of Runaway. Another Way starts just to the left of Runaway at a nice constructed platform.
The route: climb right of a dirty gully and left of a thumper, left-facing corner just left of the start of Runaway. Climb a slot in the right side of the roof (#3 Camalot). Move left and up (good small cam in a horizontal) to good holds that lead to the bottom of a narrow pillar. This pillar thumps a bit. There is a good red Alien and a small brass to the right of the pillar. Climb the right side of the pillar to reach a jug. If you can't reach the jug, you may have to climb further right, and then this would be the crux at 5.10 something. Continue on easier ground, angling right, aiming for a prominent left-facing corner. Climb the corner and then up and left to a hanging block in the ceiling. Climb carefully past the block and then up some rounded holds to the top. There are some obvious variations to the left of the upper part of this route.
Descent: from the belay tree, scramble a short distance down and climber's right to a meadow. Hike downhill climber's left to the bottom of the left side of the Upper Tier. Hike back below the Upper Tier to the start.
This is a possible first ascent; however, there was what seemed to be chalk in a pocket below a ceiling on the upper half. That point is reachable from Runaway. On the other hand, there were several very loose rocks on the lower half, and I had to excavate the dirt from several key gear placements. So perhaps someone has previously climbed the upper half, maybe while exploring where the top of Runaway should go.
Approach: walk right below the Lower Tier to its right side, then up an obvious climber's trail to the right side of the Upper Tier. The obvious right angling crack on the right of the crag is the start of Runaway. Another Way starts just to the left of Runaway at a nice constructed platform.
The route: climb right of a dirty gully and left of a thumper, left-facing corner just left of the start of Runaway. Climb a slot in the right side of the roof (#3 Camalot). Move left and up (good small cam in a horizontal) to good holds that lead to the bottom of a narrow pillar. This pillar thumps a bit. There is a good red Alien and a small brass to the right of the pillar. Climb the right side of the pillar to reach a jug. If you can't reach the jug, you may have to climb further right, and then this would be the crux at 5.10 something. Continue on easier ground, angling right, aiming for a prominent left-facing corner. Climb the corner and then up and left to a hanging block in the ceiling. Climb carefully past the block and then up some rounded holds to the top. There are some obvious variations to the left of the upper part of this route.
Descent: from the belay tree, scramble a short distance down and climber's right to a meadow. Hike downhill climber's left to the bottom of the left side of the Upper Tier. Hike back below the Upper Tier to the start.
Protection
Doubles from brass to #2 Camalot, single #3 Camalot. Perhaps only singles needed in finger-sized cams. There were two spots I wanted another #0.75 Camalot, having already placed two, so you might want to bring an extra in that size. Double ropes useful, especially for the bottom where the route zig zags a bit.
0 Comments