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Routes in A. Cactus Cliff Far Left (left of Muscle Beach)
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Alignment, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Awesome Offwidthin' T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Axis of Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Banana Split S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Barbed Wire Love S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Beach Ball S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Blackman's Burden S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blond Princes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bran-Dan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cactus Pad S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Carnage (aka "Wild Virus") S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cellulite District T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Centurion Enigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Crimpin' and Pimpin' S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Crynoid Corner S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cure For The Common Crimp S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Da Fly S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fantasia S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fast Food Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flight of the Phoenix S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Gabby S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Glass Babies S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Glue Slippage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hair Trigger S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Illegal Smile S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Institutional Meat S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Joy of Cholla, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jumpin' the Gun S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Killer Toupee, The T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Leisure Class S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Misalignment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pick a Peck of Perfect Pulling Pockets S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Purple Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Six Pack O' Whoop-Ass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slicer S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Spray Lord S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Super Suka S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Three-Quarter Ton S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unnamed (aka Slab n' Vein) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Working Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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World Peace S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Mike Johnson, Dale Goddard, 1985 |
| Page Views: | 3,119 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Dec 19, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
About 50 feet to the left of the Tits Up/Hot Beach area on the left side of Cactus is a nice section of cliff with a distinct bulge about 30 feet off the ground. Two routes climb this section of cliff with the left route being Da Fly (13a). The right route that shares the same start with Da Fly is Glue Slippage.
After climbing the scary loose start of Da Fly, move slightly right to a ledge system below the bulge. Move up to the bulge (tricky), and then make burly moves along an overhung, right-trending seam with difficult clipping stances (crux). At the top of the seam, move left onto a thin headwall with sustained climbing to the anchors.
This is a Cactus Cliff three star, for out-of-the-ordinary steepness for Shelf and historical reasons (since it is rumored to be the first route at Shelf).
After climbing the scary loose start of Da Fly, move slightly right to a ledge system below the bulge. Move up to the bulge (tricky), and then make burly moves along an overhung, right-trending seam with difficult clipping stances (crux). At the top of the seam, move left onto a thin headwall with sustained climbing to the anchors.
This is a Cactus Cliff three star, for out-of-the-ordinary steepness for Shelf and historical reasons (since it is rumored to be the first route at Shelf).
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