Bad Man with a Devil's Hand
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Griffith, Wolf |
Page Views: | 1,189 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Wade Griffith on May 4, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Description
This is a fun route up a previously unexplored section of the wall. It goes up through the "Elephant's Foot" to the right of Ain't Crack.
P1. The first pitch follows rotten flared crack up to the Elephant's Foot roof and passes it on right to follow 5.8 offwidth. Create a natural belay with gear from 3 to 4 inches at the water groove (long slings good to reduce rope drag at the roof).
P2. Next pitch angles up and left on the slab to a steep arete (cool exposure) following a line of bolts, 10b - take natural gear for the belay, #3 Camalot size.
P3. The last pitch is the crux on steep crystals to the right of Ain't Crack headwall to a bolt belay.
Maybe a more direct route is possible straight up to the arete left of the offwidth for a variation on first pitch, but you would need to be equipped with bolts maybe.
P1. The first pitch follows rotten flared crack up to the Elephant's Foot roof and passes it on right to follow 5.8 offwidth. Create a natural belay with gear from 3 to 4 inches at the water groove (long slings good to reduce rope drag at the roof).
P2. Next pitch angles up and left on the slab to a steep arete (cool exposure) following a line of bolts, 10b - take natural gear for the belay, #3 Camalot size.
P3. The last pitch is the crux on steep crystals to the right of Ain't Crack headwall to a bolt belay.
Maybe a more direct route is possible straight up to the arete left of the offwidth for a variation on first pitch, but you would need to be equipped with bolts maybe.
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