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Routes in The Bishop
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Bishop Crack T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bishop Offwidth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bishop's Conundrum (aka Psycho Physics) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Craftwork T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ellingwood Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flounder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown Handcrack - AKA The Right Splitter T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown to me |
| Page Views: | 1,551 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 4, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
On the East Face of the Biship, near the right-hand edge is a crack system starting from atop a large boulder at the base. This is visible as route #4 in the attached picture, not #5 as mis-stated in the text of the photo. (#5 is grouper- not that there is no Route #4 listed or pictured)
The route climbs up and right in a flaring wide crack for a few meters, then cuts sharply up and left out of a bulge/small roof formed by a huge hanging flake. This is done on a finger and hand crack. This short section is the crux, particularly getting up into the splitter hand crack above. There is good gear there, which is good, because I saw that climb spit off a few 5.11 leaders (who had just on-sighted a 5.11b). Continue climbing on good moves and good gear to a belay stance and anchor.
If desired, continue climbing the OW 2nd pitch to the top of the rock. I can not further elaborate on that since I did not do it, but am hoping that someone will submit a 2nd pitch description as a "correction" to replace this paragraph.
The center anchor needs some old crap removed and a second new piece installed, but I did not have enough to finish the job. The upper left bolt also needs to be replaced someday... it's pretty bad and getting worse.
The route climbs up and right in a flaring wide crack for a few meters, then cuts sharply up and left out of a bulge/small roof formed by a huge hanging flake. This is done on a finger and hand crack. This short section is the crux, particularly getting up into the splitter hand crack above. There is good gear there, which is good, because I saw that climb spit off a few 5.11 leaders (who had just on-sighted a 5.11b). Continue climbing on good moves and good gear to a belay stance and anchor.
If desired, continue climbing the OW 2nd pitch to the top of the rock. I can not further elaborate on that since I did not do it, but am hoping that someone will submit a 2nd pitch description as a "correction" to replace this paragraph.
The center anchor needs some old crap removed and a second new piece installed, but I did not have enough to finish the job. The upper left bolt also needs to be replaced someday... it's pretty bad and getting worse.
Protection
For the first pitch (crux, 5.10c), a single set of nuts and a single set of cams to 3inches. A larger cam can be placed up top for the faint of heart. There is an anchor on 2 bolts (1 good, 1 bad) that can serve as a rap or belay to the right of the ledge.The second pitch is WIDE WIDE (5.9), and you can take up whatever looks like it may fit.
Photos
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