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Routes in Penitente - Entrance Area
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[Redacted] T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Abrazos y Chingazos S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alien In My Underpants S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Apocketlips T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Art of Suffering T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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BBC? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black is Beautiful S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltergeist S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Camino De La Sonia T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Captain America S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cassandra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Color Blind S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Color of Devotion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Colors Of Emotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Dive Right In S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dos Hombres S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Drill Seeker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dynosaur S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Entrance Slab Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Forbidden Fruit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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French Lesson S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Glutton for Punishment S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Go Vandals S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Hand Jam Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hareless T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hummingbird S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Illegal Alien S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Iron Cross S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Laura T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Loony Toons S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lovesnake S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mark's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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May-B-Nueve S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Milo S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mission in the Rain S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mission in the Snow S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Morning Glory S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mr. Breeze S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Mr. Wind S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mysterious Redhead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Nature Of The Beast, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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No Regret S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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OPS S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Persephone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prick Pocket S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Que Pasa S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Queso Cabeza S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Quetzalcoatl Comes Through S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rocket Man S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sangrador, The T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Self-flagellation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Serpent, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shitty Gift, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sitting in Limbo S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Stand, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stemoroids S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tangerine Dream T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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That's the Way S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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To Err Is Human T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Twist of Fate S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Twist of Feet S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Unknown Easy T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Wages of Sin T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wearing the Inside Out S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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What The Hey S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Wolf Nipple Chips S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Yah-Ta-Hei S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | ?? |
| Page Views: | 1,683 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Anderson on May 13, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Limited access Oct. 15-17, 2021
Details
Per Wes O'Rourke: there will be limited access October 15th-17th. The first annual True Penitence Climbing Festival will take place October 15th-17th, 2021. The festival will be reserving all campsites and parking lots at the main canyon on October 15th and 16th. Participation in all festival events will require registration for the festival. The canyon will still be open to the public for day use, but please plan accordingly, as camping is not available on site and parking will be restricted. Also, the climbing competition on Saturday the 16th will be asking the general public to yield to all competition climbers, as competing climbers will be heavily using most of the routes in the canyon. Please consider climbing elsewhere during the festival if you don't want to participate.
Description
I haven't RP'd this thing as of this time, but it seems like every time I go to Penitente, I'm seduced by this tempting boulder problem. This route is singularly unique for the area. It always seems like a good route to try when my fingertips have been schralped (to borrow a phrase).
Located about halfway down the trail to the virgin painting, you can't miss this sharply overhanging roof with two distinct pockets in it. Stick clip the first bolt, then reach for the first big pocket, dyno to the positive two finger...then start the crux...mantling over the lip.
Make sure your tendons are ready for this thing, as the dyno to the two finger could seriously injur you.
I placed a #0 TCU at the very start to keep the rope out of my way. This thing really needs another bolt down low to serve that purpose.
Located about halfway down the trail to the virgin painting, you can't miss this sharply overhanging roof with two distinct pockets in it. Stick clip the first bolt, then reach for the first big pocket, dyno to the positive two finger...then start the crux...mantling over the lip.
Make sure your tendons are ready for this thing, as the dyno to the two finger could seriously injur you.
I placed a #0 TCU at the very start to keep the rope out of my way. This thing really needs another bolt down low to serve that purpose.
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