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Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Dazed and Confuzed S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tweaker's Dream S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Josie's S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shear Strength S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sheer Lunacy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Schizoid Way S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sister of Mercy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Black Jesus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Apes in Estrus S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Ms. Cool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shady Lady S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Anatomy 101 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dan’s Hideaway S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cara de Hueco S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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A Horse Named Man S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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A Horse With No Name S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ball Bearings S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Thumb Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thumb, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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El Dedo Es la Llave S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ranck E S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nueve a Seis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hueco Mania (submitted as Huecos Rancheros) S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pumping Huecos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unknown Micah Memorial Boulder Left V2 5+ |
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Unknown Micah Memorial Boulder Right V5 6C |
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Unicorn, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unnamed 5.3 S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Unnamed 5.4 S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Animosity S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bad Rap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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My Body is a Cage S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Creature Fear S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dog's Delight S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Banana Slugs in Heat S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hip Hop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Colville Express S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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1 Percent T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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2 Percent S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pink Moon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Soul Boy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Forever Young S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Candy Apple Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Brown Sugar S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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10,000 Maniacs S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Black Sheets of Rain S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Pinch a Nip S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slabbo Arete (submitted as Unknown 5.10d) S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slabbo Crossing (submitted as Unknown (5.6 ramp)) S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slabbo S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Thelma and Louise S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Jack and Diane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unbound S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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BVB American Hero (submitted as New Dihedral) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jewel of the Mild S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heaven Can Wait T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Children Of A Lesser Grade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ordinary People S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Vapor Trails S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Golden Years S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Sweat, No Vapor S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unrepenitente S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bob's World S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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B1 or V5 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Santa Cruz T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Omnipenitent S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jabba the Hutt S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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True Penitence T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Innocent Mission S V5 6C |
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Intimidator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Freddy's Nightmare S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Friday the 13th S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Morada S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Power Play S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Virgin, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Not My Cross To Bear S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bullet the Blue Sky S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tanks for the Hueco S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Breakdown Dead Ahead S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rubber Bullet (open project?) S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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We Found This Spoon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Passion Play S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Harvey's Wallbanger T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Handle with Care T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Crucifixion Party S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Breaking Bob S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mourning in the Creak S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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No Intent S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Air Jordan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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7/11 S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Tao of Gymnastic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Head Over Heals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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How The West Was Won S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Concupiscent Curds S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Warlock V2 5+ |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Jesus Wouldn't Climb It T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Bob D'Antonio, 10/87 |
| Page Views: | 9,591 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Anderson on May 14, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route climbs the spectacular rust-colored wall immediately right of the Virgin painting.
This is a really great route for the grade. Unlike many of the hard routes in Penitente, it is not just a one move wonder, but it demands sustained effort all the way to the chains. I found one hard/reachy move getting to the 2nd bolt (will be no problem for taller people), then generally very consistent difficulty to the very top. I would consider this to be the 2nd must-do route after "Bullet the Blue Sky".
There is at least one really obvious enhanced pocket on this route which is a real shame. From what I could see, it was another case of pointless chipping, as the hold in question seemed to be just fine without the "improvement". Thinking back, there were probably other holds as well, but I didn't scrutinize every one. For the record, Bob D. was not the chipper, it was some AC. If you are one of those who refuses to climb on chipped routes, then in this case, it will be your loss, as this route is really worthwhile, despite the cowardly act of some numbnutz.
As for the grade? I thought it was quite a bit harder than "Bullet the Blue Sky". The moves are easier than "Color of Devotion" but more sustained...so all-in-all, slightly easier.
This is a really great route for the grade. Unlike many of the hard routes in Penitente, it is not just a one move wonder, but it demands sustained effort all the way to the chains. I found one hard/reachy move getting to the 2nd bolt (will be no problem for taller people), then generally very consistent difficulty to the very top. I would consider this to be the 2nd must-do route after "Bullet the Blue Sky".
There is at least one really obvious enhanced pocket on this route which is a real shame. From what I could see, it was another case of pointless chipping, as the hold in question seemed to be just fine without the "improvement". Thinking back, there were probably other holds as well, but I didn't scrutinize every one. For the record, Bob D. was not the chipper, it was some AC. If you are one of those who refuses to climb on chipped routes, then in this case, it will be your loss, as this route is really worthwhile, despite the cowardly act of some numbnutz.
As for the grade? I thought it was quite a bit harder than "Bullet the Blue Sky". The moves are easier than "Color of Devotion" but more sustained...so all-in-all, slightly easier.
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