Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: M. Brooks, J. Martin, 1982
Page Views: 1,850 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 3, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


11 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is an overlooked route. I really enjoyed it and it was different and out of character for Eldo. The black corner here is not "dirty" it's in fact a hard patina!

This route lies in the obscure Kashmir area. It is best found by passing the Cirque of the Cracks, landmarking via the last obvious corner, "The Formula" (fixed pins and a fixed wire) continue up the hill and right to an obvious black corner with a steep "tips" crack section 7 meters up.

Climb the corner on good holds and good moves with good gear (small Aliens or similar), passing the 5.10a crux to a good rest before finishing on decent jams and larger gear.

Finish up and right to a huge tree with a sling and ring (just replaced). Rap to descend.

Protection Suggest change

A standard light rack with some 0.3-0.75" cams. You get overhead pro for the crux sequence, finished with the pro at knee level. It can be sewn up if desired. (Edit to add): some people say that the gear might pull. I was not too worried about this, but it apparently happened to someone. Read the comments below.

Photos

loading