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Routes in East Ridge
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Babyback T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Edgemaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Everpresent Lane T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Exile S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Fluorescent Gray T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Fountain of Youth T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Galactic Warrior T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Haywire T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ilga Grimpeur S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Iron Cross T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Kent's Krack T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Knack, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Lightning Bolt Arete T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Slabmaster aka Stealth Bomber S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Stealth Slab Downclimb T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Superguide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Healy, Schaivon, Hare, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 946 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 1, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route lies between the popular lines Fountain of Youth and Lightning Bolt Aret. While there are a few VERY good sections on this route, the route is otherwise unremarkable, and so it merits 2 stars for this venue, by merits of being "in a small pond" it would probably merit only one star in a larger venue.
Start up the crack system that is the same for both 'The Knack' and 'Fountain Of Youth.' this 5.8- crack reaches a sloping ledge system maybe 5 meters up. From there, work out and right across a moderate but runout face to reach an inset flake that caps a 1-meter roof. Tackle the roof on good holds and jams with good gear overhead, this is probably 8+. Continue up past the roof into a clean perfect dark corner with an RP crack. The last 7 meters of climbing is as good clean and solid as it could get, but all to short. Protect with RPs or similar and top out on great 5.9+ moves, stemming and edging. A tentative leader at this grade might find it difficult to protect solidly at the crux. (think of the Over The Hill dihedral, but with no pins at all)
Up top, place a large nut and traverse to belay to the North, on the bolted anchors for 'Fountain Of Youth.' Rap on a 60m rope, watching the ends.
Start up the crack system that is the same for both 'The Knack' and 'Fountain Of Youth.' this 5.8- crack reaches a sloping ledge system maybe 5 meters up. From there, work out and right across a moderate but runout face to reach an inset flake that caps a 1-meter roof. Tackle the roof on good holds and jams with good gear overhead, this is probably 8+. Continue up past the roof into a clean perfect dark corner with an RP crack. The last 7 meters of climbing is as good clean and solid as it could get, but all to short. Protect with RPs or similar and top out on great 5.9+ moves, stemming and edging. A tentative leader at this grade might find it difficult to protect solidly at the crux. (think of the Over The Hill dihedral, but with no pins at all)
Up top, place a large nut and traverse to belay to the North, on the bolted anchors for 'Fountain Of Youth.' Rap on a 60m rope, watching the ends.
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