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Routes in Wind Tower - S Face
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Balls of Fire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Beluga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Blackjack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Diffraction T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Disguise T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Futile Laments T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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King's X T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Lower Triagonal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Metamorphosis, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muscle Up, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b X |
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Punter, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Rainbow Wall T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Scotch and Soda T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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SE Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Sheer Terror T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b X |
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Uplift, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Ur-Ine Trouble T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Yellow Traverse, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Charlie Fowler & Mike Munger - 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,442 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Balls of Fire is a not oft done face climb squeezed in between Disguise and The Metamorphosis. It probably doesn't get done too often because of it's serious reputation, but there are quite a few solid placements - I would have only called this climb S, but Rossiter and my partner say VS and that seems fair. Gear [definitely] is tricky and the climb is run out, but the fall appears to be pretty clean - moreso than it's neighbors.
Begin about 15' up and left from the [LEFT-Facing, RIGHT-leaning] corner of The Metamorphosis at the first obvious place to pull over the roof (on a lichen-covered jug). Right under this roof is a hidden, bomber gear placement. Pull up to a stance on the lip of the roof, then continue up the face with sparse pro, heading generally straight up, then slightly right to clip the bolt at the optional belay of Metamorphosis. From here, head straight up then cut left before the Ur-ine Trouble corner system. The crux is at an overlap with some downwards-pointing flakes. This is well protected with a few small wires, but they are pumpy to place.
Finally merge with Disguise and belay at the tree. Having done most of the climbs on the upper section of this wall now, The Metamorphosis is the hands-down classic, Scotch & Soda is pretty good Disguise and Balls of Fire are kinda junky.
Begin about 15' up and left from the [LEFT-Facing, RIGHT-leaning] corner of The Metamorphosis at the first obvious place to pull over the roof (on a lichen-covered jug). Right under this roof is a hidden, bomber gear placement. Pull up to a stance on the lip of the roof, then continue up the face with sparse pro, heading generally straight up, then slightly right to clip the bolt at the optional belay of Metamorphosis. From here, head straight up then cut left before the Ur-ine Trouble corner system. The crux is at an overlap with some downwards-pointing flakes. This is well protected with a few small wires, but they are pumpy to place.
Finally merge with Disguise and belay at the tree. Having done most of the climbs on the upper section of this wall now, The Metamorphosis is the hands-down classic, Scotch & Soda is pretty good Disguise and Balls of Fire are kinda junky.
Photos
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