PRINT: Rock Climb Kama Sutra, Boulder Canyon

Kama Sutra

5.10a, Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.7 from 68 votes
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, 1998
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Sleeping Beauty > Main Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed. Details

On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.

2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

The is the best of the trad crack climbs at Sleeping Beauty. It would be 3 stars if cleaner, but as is it is cleaner than the other crack climbs here. Rossiter calls the initial ceiling 10d. It felt about 10b to us--perfect, straightforward jams. I had more trouble higher up at the wide spot that Rossiter calls 5.9.

Start: At the left end of Ledge 2 is a "gap" in the ledge where you either have to traverse on the rock and squeeze behind a tree, or drop down about 8 feet and climb back up. Just left of this gap is a hand crack through the ceiling. This is the route. Just left of this the bolted Lightspeed climbs the same ceiling.

P1. The climb: Climb the ceiling on perfect jams and gear. Easier climbing follows the crack to where it gets wide. Use the #3 Camalot here. I thought the wide section was quite hard. I did a couple of fist jams. My partners used various other techniques. Rossiter says you can, instead, move left at 10c and up a flared hand crack at 5.9. I considered that.... 55 feet.

P2. Above the wide section, pass a small tree and then follow a very fun, thin, 8-ish crack that angles slightly left. There are lots of scoops, etc. for your feet, so it's more like face climbing with the crack for gear. The crack is slightly discontinuous, but there is good gear when you need it. There are quite a few grass tufts in the crack, but they do not detract from the climbing. At the top, when the angle eases way back, get a directional and angle left to the anchors on Aerial Boundaries and a comfortable belay. 100 or 120 feet.

Descent: Two raps from bolts with rings with a single rope or a single rap with two ropes.

Protection

Doubles from green Alien to #2 Camalot, single #3 Camalot and #3.5 (#4 Friend). Single set nuts to conserve your cams. 20 draws including some long slings should be plenty. Tape or crack gloves optional for the bottom third of the climb.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

Kama Sutra from below.

Armin whooping it up linking the pitches.

Jonathan surmounting the pain of a bloodied thumb incurred on the sport climb to the left.

Pebby at work on Kama Sutra...before the flood.

Joan Johns retreats from Kama Sutra in yet another thunderstorm. Does it rain in August or what? It took two tries, but the route is now very clean.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO

5.10b

A long, excellent crack climb. A few burly hand jams through the roof, and an awkward wide section a little higher were the main difficulties. My partners with smaller hands (and shorter reach) found the roof difficult. The long, angling finger crack at the top was also fun.

You can rappel with two ropes back to the ledge at the start. Rappel straight down Aerial Boundaries; don't angle the rappel back toward the start of the climb, or you risk getting a rope stuck on a ledge with loose blocks after you pull it. Sep 12, 2004

brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA

Just make sure when you throw a rope over the edge of a cliff, you let the climbers below you know that a rope is coming...i.e. yell "ROPE!" , and maybe wait a few questions for a "CLEAR!".....even if you think no one is below you. Sep 14, 2004

S. Kimball

After the many happy hands and feet that have scrapped up this fine climb; we can safely say this is barely 5.10, including the traverse left to avoid the angry wide section. Sep 30, 2004

Pebby Johns
Boulder, Colorado

There has been extensive work done recently on this spectacular crack. Along with the trail work to the approach being done, there are now new anchors at the tops of the first and second pitches. The new anchors on the first pitch are even with the anchors on Lightspeed. This pitch is about 75 ft. long. The finger crack on the left has also been cleaned (again) and offers an excellent alternative to the off-width. The second pitch has been cleaned to open the crack for solid jams and placements. This pitch is about 100 ft. long. The route is high quality in excellent rock and deserved the attention given to it over the last couple of weeks (inspite of the adverse weather conditions at times). Kama Sutra is wholly deserving of three stars !!!
Pebby Johns Aug 29, 2006

Ben Collett

It seems that there is a 3rd variant. Realizing that my rack would not afford me any protection in the wide section, I traversed right past a lone bolt just below it and up a crack on the right. It was quite fun, well protected and not too dirty. Sep 19, 2006

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO

5.10b

Ben,

The variant you did is a new route by Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns called The Tree of Life. Sep 19, 2006

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO

5.10b

Why cut the tree down to place the new convenience anchors at the top of P1? The tree is clearly visible in Ron's beta photo. What remains now is a 6" stump, 4-6" in diameter. I assume it was cut to make pulling the rope easier, but as there is another descent that has worked just fine for the 8 years this climb has existed, the tree should not have been chopped. Oct 1, 2006

Richard Rossiter
Boulder, CO

5.10c

"Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups." Wisdom from PULP FICTION.

This 4-foot-tall tree was removed because it was totally in your face at the top of the off-width, totally wrapped around you at the only possible belay and was being slowly destroyed by people belaying and climbing the second pitch. I could not stand to see the slow mutilation of this ill-fated Douglas fir. Perhaps you can think of it as a mercy killing. For the record, I dearly love trees. THE MEMORY OF TREES. THE TREE OF LIFE.

In their own way, trees are better things than any animal or human that ever walked the face of the earth. When is the last time you were attacked or robbed by a tree? Do you have locks on your doors because trees exist? Oct 4, 2006

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

I'll have to second Ivan's thoughts here. The bottom felt 10a at hardest, and Pretty solid- I placed gear expecting hard moves, tehn just cruised it. But then I got higher to the wider section and slowed down quite considerably- fighting in and out of the back of that crack for fist-jams. I walked the #3 camalot up because I didn't have anything else bigger than hands with me. One move Felt like 5.9 up there.

If I were to do the climb again, I'd take cams from 1/2" to 4" (one each) and a double set of stoppers- this thing EATS large stoppers and I only had 1 set. Jul 11, 2008

Alison Conrad
Evergreen, CO

I give this route 5.9. Bottom part was not 5.10d- cruiser hands. The upper wider part was a bit trickier that warrants a 5.9 rating. Fun and well protected. Not as grungy as it looks. Aug 25, 2009

Timothy
Fort Collins, Colorado

Soft. 5.9. locker hand jams down low though Sep 5, 2012

claytown
Boulder, CO

5.9+

A good climb overall and a great crack climb by Boulder Canyon standards, even if the wide part is a little dirty and wet. I agree with some others that this is more like 5.9+ or maybe 10a. Jun 26, 2013

Big DogBurlyDiesel
COLORADO

5.10-

A great crack route in BoCan. We linked this in one pitch with a 70m. Five ten... 10a... who knows...? It was a fun romp nonetheless!!! Wide section was fun, so not to be missed if at the crag! Sep 19, 2015

rkrum

5.9

Some traffic would be really nice on this one. As it is now, it isn't bad, but it would be one of the better pitches in the canyon at the grade if it cleaned up a bit. Cruiser hand crack roof, fun bit of wider climbing at the top, what more could you ask for?

And there is no way this thing is any harder than 9+ at the absolute most. IMO, the lower hand crack felt 5.9, maybe 9+ if you can't jam hand cracks, the wider section 5.8ish. Oct 8, 2015

Nathaniel Dray
Reno, NV

5.9

P1 is 5.9, P2 is 5.7. P1 was good, and pitch two was awesome! Super casual, well-protected, great position. Jun 2, 2018

Haley Young

5.9+

Great, well protected first pitch. I would not give it 5.10, but I don't want to sandbag anyone! It needs more traffic and will be a great route once a little more traffic is had on it. There was only one spot to me that felt a little dirty. We ran out of time for the second pitch, but it looks really mellow and fun! Jun 13, 2020

David House
Boulder, CO

Fun to be able to do it as one long pitch, we were able to lower off from the upper anchors using every bit of an 80m rope. The initial crux bulge is pretty strenuous for a 5.9 (personally I'd give it the 10a), but the pro is good. I didn't need my #4 Camalot, but I placed both my #3s. I wish I had more big stoppers with me. Still pretty dirty. Sep 25, 2020

Jesse Keough
Denver CO

5.10a

We linked both pitches, and it took every foot of an 80m rope to get back to the ground. This makes a super long toprope for the 2nd. Jun 4, 2022