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Routes in Redgarden - Roof Routes
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(Total) Psycho! T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1- |
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Blue Steel T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Canary Corner Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Clear the Deck T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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Clever Lever S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Dangerous Acquaintances T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X |
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Downpressor Man S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Evangeline S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A1 |
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Fire and Ice T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Gem, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Guardian Saint T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Guen-Ice T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Guenese T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Hands In The Clouds T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 |
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Huck Off T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kloeberdanz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Kloeberdeath/Candallegro T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Last Rite T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Le Toit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Le Toit Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Le Verne T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lipsync T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mean Lean T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Private Idaho S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Psycho S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rosy Toit T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Scary Canary T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Temporary Like Achilles T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trippin T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Tubesock Tanline T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Wasabe S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wasabeline S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Wisdom, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | M. Gilbert, W. Nuss, 1970's |
| Page Views: | 1,220 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Aug 7, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This route is an interesting one. Some great moves and good rock gated by some bad rock with poor pro right in the face of a bouldery crux. It is also a bit sandbagged in the book and is 10c or harder, even presuming I was having a bad day.
That said, it has a really nice section to it, but the yucky sections at bottom and on the ramp up top burn one of the otherwise 2 stars away.
Climb up the lower ramp, passing the the pin & rapid link at the base of "Le Toit" by maybe 15 meters. You will arrive below a thin, right-facing, acute dihedral, hanging over a roof about 5 meters up. Look carefully at the huge flake [guarding] it- I couldn't find a way to enter the dihedral without protecting behind it (only pro) and then really yarding on that thing! Place a belay up and West of the dihedral a bit, on some 1.5" pro under a hanging flake. That belay gear is bomber, and the belayer will be out of harms way, should climber or bad rock come down in a hurry.The leader will go up and right on solid hands (feet smear) to under the roof, then right under the roof and around to gain the dihedral. Smaller hands are good, but so are longer legs. I got a near "no hands" knee bar, but it bled me badly. Climb up and into the dihedral (crux, 10+?) and then proceed up, stemming, pinching and clinging. TCU's and stoppers pro it up. Make sure to protect your second by placing a few a the top of the crack, then wander right and sling a chicken head, then go back up and left (runout) to gain the ramp. Belay at the base of Rosy Crucifixion.
That said, it has a really nice section to it, but the yucky sections at bottom and on the ramp up top burn one of the otherwise 2 stars away.
Climb up the lower ramp, passing the the pin & rapid link at the base of "Le Toit" by maybe 15 meters. You will arrive below a thin, right-facing, acute dihedral, hanging over a roof about 5 meters up. Look carefully at the huge flake [guarding] it- I couldn't find a way to enter the dihedral without protecting behind it (only pro) and then really yarding on that thing! Place a belay up and West of the dihedral a bit, on some 1.5" pro under a hanging flake. That belay gear is bomber, and the belayer will be out of harms way, should climber or bad rock come down in a hurry.The leader will go up and right on solid hands (feet smear) to under the roof, then right under the roof and around to gain the dihedral. Smaller hands are good, but so are longer legs. I got a near "no hands" knee bar, but it bled me badly. Climb up and into the dihedral (crux, 10+?) and then proceed up, stemming, pinching and clinging. TCU's and stoppers pro it up. Make sure to protect your second by placing a few a the top of the crack, then wander right and sling a chicken head, then go back up and left (runout) to gain the ramp. Belay at the base of Rosy Crucifixion.
Protection
The route is runout and the first pro is a 1" cam or maybe a [fist-sized piece] behind a hollow-sounding and worse looking block. Further inspection from down and right will reveal that this is prbably OK, though, as it is socketed in tightly into the wall, zig-zag style. The route should protect best with a quiver of TCUs and nuts, plus a 2" cam for pulling into the dihedral (crux) and a 2.5" cam up higher. The top protects with a solid tied-off chickenhead.
Photos
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