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Routes in Valley Massif
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Been Hair Done That T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Best Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bill Steal T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bittersweet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Dirty Joke, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dreaming of Babylon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Falcon's Lair T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fire Escape T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Hair of the Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hammer T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hooker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Internal Combustion T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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King of Coney Island T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ladder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Monkey Wrench T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Nail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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New Maps of Hell T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Powder Puff T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Screw T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Social Security Ran Out T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Soft Touch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunny Day T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Surprise T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tail Spin T V9 7C |
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Tea Grinder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tool Or Die T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown Legend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Zipper T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,177 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | shad O'Neel on Jul 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Temporary Notice on aerial herbicide treatment & Bad Bolt Submission Form
Details
PSA for those thinking about a trip. The gates are still closed and the sign says enter at your own risk. "Aerial application by helicopter of the herbicide Rejuvra will target over 5,700 acres on a landscape that has been the focus of multiple years’ worth of treatment."
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1…
Description
This route is on the southwest corner of the Valley Massif. It is the leftmost of some cracks across the pretty slab seen from a distance. It's a 2 star Vedauwoo moderate, but the descent brings it down to 1 star in my opinion, but maybe there is a better way.
Climb 200' of easy 5.4 crack to a belay ledge below a headwall.
Stem and jam your way up the steep/short corner and take a hard right on a ramp to a boulder strewn ledge (short lead).
Down-slab near a wide crack (feels sketchy) to find rap bolts. These are strange bolts but seemed solid. Rap ~60' to another set and rap to the ground. I would discourage a double rope rap as your ropes will likely be eaten.
Climb 200' of easy 5.4 crack to a belay ledge below a headwall.
Stem and jam your way up the steep/short corner and take a hard right on a ramp to a boulder strewn ledge (short lead).
Down-slab near a wide crack (feels sketchy) to find rap bolts. These are strange bolts but seemed solid. Rap ~60' to another set and rap to the ground. I would discourage a double rope rap as your ropes will likely be eaten.
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