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Bacon and Ergs
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Physical Crag
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Bacon and Ergs T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Bacon Bits T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crown Joules T,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Dyne and Dash T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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EarthQuark T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Ergonomics T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fission Chips T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ohm on the Range T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Pole Vault T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Watts For Dinner T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Watts Left Over T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Alec Sharp, 1981(?) |
| Page Views: | 4,394 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 2, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This is the most obvious Route at Physical crag, as you can easily see it for 1/2 mile away. It's big, it's wide, it overhangs like crazy for the first half. Approach Physical crag's upper-right-hand tier and stand below the yawning crack. Go up it. The climb is not what it appears to be, so approach it with no prejudices. OW & squeeze technique will be useful, but not necessary for a sucsessful ascent of this bizare line. I give this 4 stars due to the wild and unique nature of the route, which I can't say too much about without spoiling the adventure of it.
Protection
Either top rope it with some swing potential- maybe into a pine tree, or TR on stoppers and medium cams + a long cord.
Or go buy some OW pro. Big Bros protect the first 20' which are much larger than an (old style) #5 Camalot (the new #6 is also too small). As well, you can lasso a few chockstones with 4' slings if so desired. 2' slings won't be long enough. After pulling through the top of the bulge, the size is more manageable and the grade much easier. It takes a standard set of cams to finish.
Or go buy some OW pro. Big Bros protect the first 20' which are much larger than an (old style) #5 Camalot (the new #6 is also too small). As well, you can lasso a few chockstones with 4' slings if so desired. 2' slings won't be long enough. After pulling through the top of the bulge, the size is more manageable and the grade much easier. It takes a standard set of cams to finish.
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