Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Routes in The Gym
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Arrowhead Spire S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mountaineer's Route S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dizzi Lizzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Up Valley Goes Downtown S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Black Mamba Arete S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Urban Fringe S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Oh... What Are You Looking At S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shorty Bob S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pulley Mammoth S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Natty Dread S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Vernacular, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ga-stoned Again S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raw and the Roasted, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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In the Morning, You'll Be Mine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cask Strength S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tomato, Tomotto S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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St. Patty's Slab S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blast from the Past S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rally Monkey S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Stud with a Rug S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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She's Got a Full Set of Camalots! T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Three Stooges S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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New Rule S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tapped Out S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Untapped S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Free Willie V1-2 5 |
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Farewell Transmission S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crimp and Punishment S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Senor Verde S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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S&M Crack S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Bolt the Planet S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Prickly Pear S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Librium Quiver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Penitentiary Pump S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Even Bad Dogs Get A Bone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rio Station S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Must Love Dogs S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Butt Flambé S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Here Today Gone Tomorrow S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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There Goes the Neighborhood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Paradise Regained S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fly Little Super Boy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Real Deal, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Lockdown S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Smoking Pickle, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spontaneous Combustion S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Thunder & Lightning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Trailer Park Logic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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I Never Met a Carbo I Didn't Like S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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I Am A Machine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pinhead S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Scarface S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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VHS or Beta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ejection Seat, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Ejection Generation S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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My Generation S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Crystal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Great Escape, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Morning Stretch S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bubba's Belly (aka The Example Simulator) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Example, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Gym Arete Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Gym Arete, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crack of Dawn, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Meathead S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Head Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Easy Cheese aka Trout Fishing in America S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Arnold! Arnold! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Solar Flex S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Five Dollars S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I'll Be Back S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hot Rod Lincoln S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Comin' In Smooth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cimmaron Lanes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Orange Marmalade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jane Fonda Warm-up S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Happy Hinzi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Muscles From Brussels S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Armstrong Express, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Needle Haven aka Fallen Prophet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Demagogue S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Deeper Shade Of Soul S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Profits of Rage S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Green Bonus, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Bone 'n' Vein S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
Order Wrong?
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Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Brian Mullin |
Page Views: | 1,123 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | TBD on May 14, 2004 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
A couple hundred feet right of the Mammoth Wall (home of Natty Dread, Ga-stoned Again, and many other fine routes) is an inviting clean slab. This route ascends the center of this wall and was established in vintage style. As such it is a little run-out, however as such is also very engaging and thoughtful.
Standing at the base of the wall, the route will be obvious. Look for the spread out line of bolts, with the first being a ways up and the second similarly far above the first. From the ground the climbing looks very difficult between the first and second bolt, but there are good holds and feet that aren't obvious from the ground and aren't covered with chalk. Start in a finger crack and climb up to the first bolt, continue meandering past the line of bolts finding the path of least resistance. There is currently a two bolt anchor at the top.
This route is great in it's current state. Periodic good stances allow for the necessary thinking the route requires to ascend safely. While run-out, the protection seems quite appropriate, in my opinion. I sincerely hope that this route does NOT get retro-bolted. If it does, it will become an average 5.10 clip-up. The largest detraction from this route is the ridiculous squeeze job that has been put in to the right of it (Senor Verde). The location of the first few bolts of this new route severly detracts from the beginning of Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception, a true shame.
Standing at the base of the wall, the route will be obvious. Look for the spread out line of bolts, with the first being a ways up and the second similarly far above the first. From the ground the climbing looks very difficult between the first and second bolt, but there are good holds and feet that aren't obvious from the ground and aren't covered with chalk. Start in a finger crack and climb up to the first bolt, continue meandering past the line of bolts finding the path of least resistance. There is currently a two bolt anchor at the top.
This route is great in it's current state. Periodic good stances allow for the necessary thinking the route requires to ascend safely. While run-out, the protection seems quite appropriate, in my opinion. I sincerely hope that this route does NOT get retro-bolted. If it does, it will become an average 5.10 clip-up. The largest detraction from this route is the ridiculous squeeze job that has been put in to the right of it (Senor Verde). The location of the first few bolts of this new route severly detracts from the beginning of Our Bosch of Immaculate Conception, a true shame.
Photos
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