PRINT: Rock Climb Don't Mess with My Thing, South Platte

Don't Mess with My Thing

5.12-, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 19 votes
FA: Bob D'Antonio; resurrected by Matt Resser and Lisa Montgomery 2015
Colorado > S Platte > Cathedral Spire… > Sunshine Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures

The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…

Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.

Description

Just left of the Standard Route is a beautiful,clean almost vertical slab. Follow the line of bolts up the smooth slab to a small roof. Make a tricky move past the roof and reach the belay. The crux is getting to the fouth bolt. Great route with good steep and dicey slab climbing. Almost three stars.

Protection

11 bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

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Midway up the route.<br>
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Photo by Lisa Montgomery.

Midway up the route. Photo by Lisa Montgomery.

This is the line.

LISA!

This is Lisa.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

Has anyone else here ever done the route "Fire Arms And Grace" ??? If so, please contact me, I have some questions. Jan 30, 2004

Matt Reeser

5.12b

We now have bolts...again? This thing has been messed with. 3.5 star slab route! It's a little spicy (sorry?) and better with the draws hung. Feb 26, 2015

Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO

There were originally 9 bolts, but 2 bolts were added to make this a more reasonable lead (11 total now). It is easy to set a toprope/hang draws after doing Wear Cattle if you want. Nov 21, 2015

Monty
Golden, CO

This is a phenomenal slab pitch! Don't over complicate the upper roof or face the heartbreaker that I did. Dec 31, 2016

michalm

Excellent movement on this route with improbable sequences. Felt 12b ish for the OS. Mostly good rock quality that should improve with traffic. Please brush off your tickmarks before you leave the crag! Jan 6, 2018

Matt Reeser

5.12b

A fun link-up is to do this pitch into Kevin's route Coppertone (the bolted line above the anchor). Bring a small piece for the roof and either back clean the anchor or extend it with two runners. Feb 17, 2019

Bob D

I thought the original bolts were more than enough for this pitch, thanks to Matt & Lisa for bringing this wonderful slab pitch back to life. :-) Jun 9, 2020

Monty
Golden, CO

Bob, oddly enough I've only managed to locate 1 of your original bolts on this route, so I have no idea how many you used. Whoever chopped it did a great job of hiding the bolts. It's also possible that Matt and Lisa climbed a slightly different path from your original route. Lisa's comment about the route originally having 9 bolts is referring to their initial bolting of the route, not yours. Matt was feeling especially bold that day and really ran some sections out in the middle. They decided to add 2 more bolts a year later to make it a more reasonable lead. Regardless of the history, this is one of my favorite pitches in the Spires. Dec 4, 2020