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Bullett
WI3 M6
Avg: 3.6 from 24
votes
Routes in NE Buttress Hallett Peak - mixed/ice
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Cleft, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4 Steep Snow R |
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Booby Trap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c M4-5 Easy Snow PG13 |
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Hallett Couloir Mod. Snow |
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Ricochet T M5-6 PG13 |
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Ms. Inferno T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V3 6A M7 PG13 |
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Dodging the Bullet T WI4 M4 |
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Bullett T WI3 M6 |
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Great Dihedral to Upper Buttress M5- |
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Hallett Chimney, AI5 M5 T WI5+ M5-6 Steep Snow |
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Englishman's Route M5-6 |
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Slit, The T M5-6 |
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Analysis Paralysis T M6 |
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Krishna Cutoff T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b M1 Steep Snow PG13 |
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North Face Direct M2-3 Steep Snow |
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Tyndall Gully Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 130 ft (39 m), Grade IV |
| FA: | Greg Sievers, Brad Grohusky |
| Page Views: | 8,045 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Greg Sievers on Jan 20, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route is located below and (East) in front of the North Face of Hallett Peak. Directly below and left of Hallett Chimney, on the next feature lower down. It ascends a HUGE dihedral under a 15' roof.
Start with WI-3 for 30'-40', then climbs the left wall of the diheadral passing two, short OW sections on their left. the upper section of the dihedral gets thin and a KB will nicely fit a seam on the left wall. Climb to the roof.traverse to the left, under the roof, on a smooth face. Protection is found in small cracks in the roof. the crux is found on the outter corner of the roof, small nuts may protect you with blind placements. A short 15' section of narrow ledges will access a large bench above. A fixed pin and nut on the back wall allow a 60m rap. to the start.
(We were headed to do Hallett Chimney, but the weather conditions were horrendous. I had seen this little ice before and considered it a consolation when needed. I named it Bullett, because on my initial voyage for the onsight and FA. I had enjoyed the climbing until I got out to the left end of the big roof. I had a KB about 15' below me and a blue Alien in a small gap/crack in the roof about 10' to my right. as I was attempting to turn the roof my crampons skated off the dime-sized edge I was trying to stand on. As I fell and pendulumed to the right, the Alien popped out, and I flipped upside down and shot down the wall like a bullet. I came to rest about 40' below and upside down and completely unharmed. I had a 3rd tool holstered and watched it sail out and shoot toward Brad. Then we traded places for the sharp end, and he finished it off. Naturally I didn't have any problems seconding cleanly, but isn't that typically the case?).
This ice (and therefore) route forms up just about every year.
Addendum: an additional pitch has been done. See the comments below.
Start with WI-3 for 30'-40', then climbs the left wall of the diheadral passing two, short OW sections on their left. the upper section of the dihedral gets thin and a KB will nicely fit a seam on the left wall. Climb to the roof.traverse to the left, under the roof, on a smooth face. Protection is found in small cracks in the roof. the crux is found on the outter corner of the roof, small nuts may protect you with blind placements. A short 15' section of narrow ledges will access a large bench above. A fixed pin and nut on the back wall allow a 60m rap. to the start.
(We were headed to do Hallett Chimney, but the weather conditions were horrendous. I had seen this little ice before and considered it a consolation when needed. I named it Bullett, because on my initial voyage for the onsight and FA. I had enjoyed the climbing until I got out to the left end of the big roof. I had a KB about 15' below me and a blue Alien in a small gap/crack in the roof about 10' to my right. as I was attempting to turn the roof my crampons skated off the dime-sized edge I was trying to stand on. As I fell and pendulumed to the right, the Alien popped out, and I flipped upside down and shot down the wall like a bullet. I came to rest about 40' below and upside down and completely unharmed. I had a 3rd tool holstered and watched it sail out and shoot toward Brad. Then we traded places for the sharp end, and he finished it off. Naturally I didn't have any problems seconding cleanly, but isn't that typically the case?).
This ice (and therefore) route forms up just about every year.
Addendum: an additional pitch has been done. See the comments below.
12 Comments