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Routes in South Face
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Family Values S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Side Topropes TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Shangrila T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Ridge (descent route) T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,627 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Lance Bischoff on Oct 2, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal Raptor Closures - these are the same as from 2021-4
Details
Per Bret Tennis: the rock climbing closures for Gray Rock in Garden of the Gods are the same as from 2021-24.
Previously: the 2024 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.
The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021-2 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Previously: the 2024 seasonal closure on the east face/north end are now in place per Bret Tennis, GOG staff. The permanent closures on the south end are still in effect.
The seasonal climbing closure were the same as 2021-2 (which started 3/26/22):
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors and other birds. (These closures will be lifted as the birds' protection allows.)
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant (Keyhole) and Gray Rock (Kindergarten) is PERMANENTLY closed to all activity.
One exception is that Family Values is open.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Older info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The North East face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
New as of 2018: a portion of the west face of this formation (at least from & including Monster Crack, 5.8, to & including Sword in the Stone, 5.8, and Big Sky) is closed to climbing due to wildlife concerns. The impact on brown bats, great horned owls, red tail hawks, and Cooper's hawks have resulted in part of the West face of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock), Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant), and the area between to be closed for all human uses including hiking and climbing. This information was from Bret Tennis, Garden of the Gods Park Operations Administrator.
Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2021-4
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2021-4 for 2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
Betty Barnett, Lance Bischoff onsight. Main picture of "Kindergarten Rock" (Grey Rock/Cathedral) follow the topmost red (summit) line straight down the ridge to left of deep dark chimney. This is the route. Start at the large twin trees half way up and begin in the "waterfall" or find one of two crack systems up to next ledge system. Staying just right of the main descent (trough) puts you on a nicely exposed ridge route with 5.5-5.6 moves all the way to summit. Some sections go steep/vertical, and rope line is critical due to rough edges and narrow troughs. Great view, more interesting than standard ascent (5.0-5.4 at most) and offers lead placements on windy exposure. For warmup, there is also a 5.7-5.8 "Mini-Martian" wall left of the trees easily toproped and about 40 feet high.
Recommended! Fun! And a real lead as opposed to short rope cruise up the standard route. Small pro won't help much, you'll want stoppers, and generous use of runners to string the rope from the ridge (work either side for pro). Enjoy the view, you'll have lots of air around you!
Recommended! Fun! And a real lead as opposed to short rope cruise up the standard route. Small pro won't help much, you'll want stoppers, and generous use of runners to string the rope from the ridge (work either side for pro). Enjoy the view, you'll have lots of air around you!
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