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West Chimney

5.6, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 1.4 from 10 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Twin Owls
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Description

This is a nice route if you like chimney climbing, if not best to keep your distance.

This climb starts from the big ledge left of Wolfstooth but right of the big rotten cleft bisecting the face. There are three options for starting which converge below the obvious chimney. The hand crack on the left is the nicest(5.7), and the low angle, left angling chimney/crack in the center is the easiest. One can continue the first pitch on up into the chimney but to help communication a belay here may be advisable. Climb up the steep, classic "boot&butt" chimney past a chockstone to a deep, flat-bottomed cave. Belay in the cave or on a ledge above on some boulders. The last lead starts out in a right facing corner and exits early to the face on the right for the easiest passage.

Unlike the Bowels of the Owls, this chimney is quite strenuous and exposed.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P2 below the crux chockstone.
[Hide Photo] P2 below the crux chockstone.
P1 L start, 5.7.
[Hide Photo] P1 L start, 5.7.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Beware of rope drag on your last piece below the chockstone on P2. Oct 4, 2004
[Hide Comment] I see the West Chimney is graded a grade higher than 60 years ago! Likewise with the Central Chimney although I wouldn't disagree with the grading of the S Chimney. It was a bugger! Sep 25, 2021
Owen Cox
colorado springs
[Hide Comment] Belay on the ledge. The ropedrag is awful from the cave. Aug 20, 2022