PRINT: Rock Climb Lene's Dream, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Lene's Dream

5.11b/c R, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 33 votes
FA: Roger Briggs & Scott Woodruff, 1976
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Tower Two

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Lene's Dream is an outstanding face climb in an outrageous position. It also makes a great finish to Jules Verne - it parallels the second pitch of the Naked Edge as Jules Verne parallels the first.

Climb the crux runout pitch of Jules Verne, place good gear in the rotten band, and, instead of traversing left, continue straight up to a nice stance above the band. Here you can place good gear and survey the climbing above. Continue up on 5.10+/5.11- technical face to an obvious slot for a green Alien or similar cam. The crux is the next ten feet or so of climbing (11c).

Finish by cutting over to the Edge at the point on the second pitch where you turn the corner from the slab to the steep face. I think the S/VS rating Rossiter gives the climb may be for Jules Verne? Lene's Dream seemed fairly well protected, although it requires a willingness to move above small, albeit good, gear.

Protection

Small stuff. A 0.5 Camalot protects the initial moves; a Green Alien protects the crux.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shumin on Lene's Dream after climbing Jules Verne.

This shot shows the JV runout, the rotten band (gear available), and the line of Lene's Dream. Photo courtesy Clint Dillard.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Anonymous Coward

Borderline 'VS' for the Jules Verne face... mild, fuzzy-'S' for Lene's Dream. Nov 20, 2003

Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO

If you are going to do Jules Verne this is definitely a better way to finish than traversing left and following the regular ho hum finish. Jul 6, 2004

Ben Walburn

A must do for the finish on Jules Verne. The runout ain't that bad. Mar 24, 2011

Ryan Arment
Boulder, CO

Took the whip from as far from the gear as possible.... Wasn't bad. Bomber 0.3 C4 or green Alien in the small roof. Don't be a moron, go straight up the green and red border. Sep 17, 2012

Noah McKelvin
Nomad

5.11b/c PG13

Definitely not R, though it has its moments. Apr 8, 2016

WadeM
Auburn, Ca

What a fun way to finish JV!

I also took the whip from as far away from the gear as possible, and it was exciting but not bad. Ended up back down slightly below the JV rotten band.
A 0.3 is bomber, Black Totem also fits great! Dec 4, 2017

David A. Turner
Colorado

5.11b/c PG13

Took one of the longest whippers of my climbing career on this pitch in mid-'90s. Belayed by a French sport climber whose English was not the best, I did not do a very good job impressing on him how runout it was going to be while standing at the belay. I think he got a much better impression after I lobbed off. Dec 10, 2017

Patrick Vernon
Grand Junction, CO

5.11- R

Spoilers! I honestly thought this section was easier than JV and no where near as scary, but I probably lucked out and hit the sequence just right. The .10b section on the edge felt kinda hard afterward as there is no true rest between the two. Save a #3 or 4 RP and medium cam for this section. I was able to get an overcammed blue 0.3 in the slot before the Lene's crux, it was a decent piece, but something slightly smaller would be better. A purple BD 0.5 would be ideal for below this piece at the ok stance above the rotten band prior to the difficulties. (I placed both my 0.5s lower). Much better finish than traversing the .8+ X rotten band, and if you saved the gear for this long and involved pitch, probably safer. JV-Lene's is probably my favorite pitch in Eldo so far. Apr 6, 2019