All Locations > Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of… > S Rim Routes

Blackjack

Name: Blackjack
Rating: 2.3

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British

Routes in South Rim Routes

L › R R › L A › Z

	North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
	Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Way Of The Ancients T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
	Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
	Blackjack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
	Fade to Black T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
	Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
	Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
	Crystalvision T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c R
	El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Image of the Invisible T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Chimney Chunga T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C0-1 PG13
	Alimony T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Steppin' Out T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Last Payment T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Dark Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
	Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Leonard Coyne and Dennis Jackson?
Page Views:	5,769 total · 20/month
Shared By:	Joe Gartner on Sep 8, 2001
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Seasonal Raptor Closures March 15- July 15

For more information Visit: nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…

Access Issue: 2019 July South Casm View Wall closure lifted. Prior: Rockfall potential closes some routes! Details

Per Matt Lisenby: South Chasm View closure is lifted.

nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/…

Climbing Route Closures
PRECAUTIONARY CLOSURE DUE TO POTENTIAL ROCKFALL

Part of South Chasm View Wall is closed due to a 300' x 40' slab of rock that shifted one inch in one week. The slab is estimated to weigh 6 million pounds or more. The NPS is consulting with geohazards specialists for further direction.

The following routes are closed:

The Night is Dark & Full of Terrors
The Flakes
5.11+ Alternate Start
Astrodog
Tague Yer Time
Shadow Boxing
The Black Hole

See nps.gov/blca/planyourvisit/… for updates.

Description

Blackjack is the very prominent left-facing dihedral on the south rim. The feature is very striking and the climbing is pretty good too. Go down the Chillumstone Gully and head skier's left or climber's right shortly after the rappel. Third and fourth-class ledges reach the base of the route (best to scope this from the north rim first).

P1: 5.9 cracks go up and left to gain the base of the huge dihedral.

P2: Climb the dihedral at 5.8?? I can't really remember.

P3: Climb a good stretch of 5.8 offwidth that is somewhat protectable (Nick placed the #4 too early on and ran it out considerably afterwards though he did get some smaller gear).

P4: Climb up to the roof slot. Turn it on the left at easy 5.10 and head up and left to a hanging gear belay. Resist the temptation to stretch it out to the ledge higher up for there isn't really a ledge and no gear for an anchor.

P5: Climb up and left to gain vertical dirt and stretch rope to a belay of your choice.

P6: From here you follow a few hundred feet of ledges and short 5th-class sections along a ridge to reach the rim.

Protection

Standard rack up to a #4 or #4.5 Camalot.

Approach

Per Lisa Montgomery: from the Visitor's Center, [per Where's Walden: park at the Devi's Lookout and walk 1/4 mile west down the road to the now blocked)] small, right-side pullout at the 20mph curvy road sign in between Devil's Lookout and Chasm View Overlook. A well-trodden trail descends right from here down the Chillumstone Gully. Descend several hundred feet down the gully (takes longer than you might expect), until you get cliffed out. Locate a rappel anchor on the right wall with a fixed line (didn't need 2 ropes as it turned out). From this rappel anchor, you can scope Blackjack, which is across the gully on the far right side of the wall. Once off rappel and underneath the "Chockstone," walk across the gully and climb up low, somewhat exposed 5th Class. Walk across a very large, grassy terrace toward the wall, eventually heading up and around the right side of the wall. The picture John Peterson took looking up the first pitch was especially helpful in locating the start of the route.