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Routes in The Pear
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Devil's Lake Revisited T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dextrous Digits T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fat-Bottomed Groove T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Finger Tripping T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Gina's Surprise T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X |
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Good Timing T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heavenly Journey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Jam on It T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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La Chaim T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Magical Chrome Plated Semi-Automatic Enema Syringe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Neko's Route T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Northern Lights T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Pit of the Pear, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Platinum Stethoscope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right Dihedral T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Root of All Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Salud T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sibling Rivalry T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slippage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sloper Ramp V8 7B |
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Sweet Sabrina T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Thorazine T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Whole Thing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: |
Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
Fixed Hardware
(5) |
| FA: | Ed Webster, Robert Anderson 1990 |
| Page Views: | 788 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Sep 19, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24
Details
From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.
Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.
Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This route lies midway between Root of All Evil and Good Timing. Start from the top of the blocks at the base of the slab. Angle right on moderate, 5.7 or so, climbing past two bolts to a small ceiling. You can get some small gear here, but the ceiling is easy, and there is a good pin just above. The Rossiter top shows it going right from here then back left, but I went left and then up and slightly right. This is way runout, but also very easy at maybe 5.5. Possible ground fall potential.
Aim for the short, right-facing corner through the roofs, down and just left of a small tree above the roofs. The corner is a bit dirty, but solid. At first I had a nut in the obvious finger jam/slot in the corner, but it was in the way, so I took it out. I relied on a less than bomber micro cam (#00 Metolius??). There is a small bush whose root makes a smooth but small handhold.
Pulling the first roof felt quite hard. Much harder than Root of All Evil, but my partners felt the two routes are comparable. Once in the corner you can clip the pin out left. Back up the pin with a cam to the right (strenuous). Mantle left around the corner and stand up. Step right and up to the tree. The Rossiter topo shows a bolt by the pin, but there is no such bolt, nor is it needed.
I give this route one star due to the moderate grunge at the crux and the unsustained nature of the climbing. It's not up to the quality of the neighboring routes.
Aim for the short, right-facing corner through the roofs, down and just left of a small tree above the roofs. The corner is a bit dirty, but solid. At first I had a nut in the obvious finger jam/slot in the corner, but it was in the way, so I took it out. I relied on a less than bomber micro cam (#00 Metolius??). There is a small bush whose root makes a smooth but small handhold.
Pulling the first roof felt quite hard. Much harder than Root of All Evil, but my partners felt the two routes are comparable. Once in the corner you can clip the pin out left. Back up the pin with a cam to the right (strenuous). Mantle left around the corner and stand up. Step right and up to the tree. The Rossiter topo shows a bolt by the pin, but there is no such bolt, nor is it needed.
I give this route one star due to the moderate grunge at the crux and the unsustained nature of the climbing. It's not up to the quality of the neighboring routes.
Protection
2 bolts near the bottom, fixed pin above small ceiling on slab, runout but easy to the roof, #2, #3 offset Friend (or regular Friends) below the roof, micro cam in corner above (don't fill in finger hold in crack with a nut!), fixed pin above final roof that can be backed up with a mid sized cam. Slings and single ring on tree.
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