PRINT: Rock Climb Choose Life, Flatirons

Choose Life

5.13c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 4 from 61 votes
FA: Team Super-Way-Awesome (Pinklebear, T-Shred, G-Lover)
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > South > Seal Rock

Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

This is a long (95-foot) lead on the south face of Seal Rock, 30 feet uphill from the base of Primate. It climbs the long, striking, wide chocolate-brown/black streak and is a sustained yet varied pitch with the technical and redpoint crux at bolt 12, the next-to-last clip.

There are thirteen bolts to chains over the lip; a 60m rope is MANDATORY. Long draws and extendo draws are useful in spots. A Metolius 6 (green) is helpful below third bolt, and Metolius 2 (yellow) is useful after third bolt.

Begin in the right-leaning hand crack/undercling and follow it to its terminus. Traverse left along a diagonal break into a scoop. Hard kneebar/sloper moves take you over a small lip and into the base of the black streak; the climbing increases in difficulty, with a dynamic crux before a decent shake. From the rest, move up and a little left into a black bowl under the bulge, then surmount the bulge via sustained pulls on underclings, embedded pebbles and crimpers, finishing at a good bathtub jug at the top of the wall. This route is best attempted with fresh skin and good conditions.

May thanks to OSMP, the Access Fund, and the Flatirons Climbing Council for making new-routing possible in the Flatirons!

The name refers to a decision in 2002, after toproping the climb (FA toprope ascent: Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff, Strappo Hughes), to not attempt it as a super-death lead on gear, not to any anti-abortion stance.

It also references the classic opening paragraph in the Irvine Welsh novel Trainspotting: "Choose life. Choose a job. Choose a career. Choose a family. Choose a fucking, big television, Choose washing machines, cars, compact disc players, and electrical tin can openers. Choose good health, low cholesterol, and dental insurance. Choose fixed-interest, mortgage repayments. Choose a starter home. Choose your friends. Choose leisure wear and matching luggage. Choose a three piece suit on hire purchase in a range of fucking fabrics. Choose DIY and wondering who the fuck you are on a Sunday morning. Choose sitting on that couch watching mind-numbing, spirit-crushing game shows, stuffing fucking junk food into your mouth. Choose rotting away at the end of it all, pissing your last in a miserable home, nothing more than an embarrassment to the selfish, fucked-up brats you have spawned to replace yourself. Choose your future. Choose life . . . ."

Protection

13 bolts. Metolius Nos. 6 and 2. Extendo draws/long slings.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Best hard sport route in the Front Range?<br>
One of many amazing photos by Eric Ian.

Best hard sport route in the Front Range? One of many amazing photos by Eric Ian.

Dan Levison cranking through the endless sea of colors on a gorgeous December day on Choose Life.

Choose Life.

Bart Paul going for the send on Choose Life in the Flatirons. This route is flippin' sick! Photo: Curt MacNeill.

Hey look mom, it's me on my project!

T-Shred, taking care of da bizzleness.

All the fun colors! Loving life in the kneebar ;)

Choose Life. One amazing rock climb!

Scott Johnson cruising into the upper crux.

Scott Johnson focused halfway up on his send of Choose Life.

Scott Johnson almost through the business.

Every time I climb this route I feel like I got laid and lost a bunch of weight!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado

I was wondering when this would be proposed. Tip of the iceberg in terms of this grade in the Flatirons. Mar 25, 2012

Christopher Barlow

Man, it would be cool if this route were approved. Thanks to the folks whose efforts have persuaded OSMP to consider this kind of development. It will be quite a contribution to the climbing community. Apr 29, 2012

Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO

Did it pass? Jul 23, 2012

gregory locker
Boulder, CO

Have the bolts been installed on this one? Dec 1, 2012

gregory locker
Boulder, CO

Splendid! Thanks for all work it took to put this one in. Can't wait to get up and try it. Dec 2, 2012

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO

5.13c

This could be the best route I have done in Colorado. Reminds me of Ultrasaurus on steroids. This ones gonna take me some work. Kudos to Matt for bolting this thing. Feb 22, 2013

Ben Sachs
Las Vegas, NV

5.13c

This is probably my new favorite sport route in the Flatirons and perhaps the entire Front Range. It's steep and super fun with varied movement on cool holds, culminating with a crux at the very top. Fully deserves every bit of 4 stars. As for the grade, I'm not sure if the route holds at 13d if you use the (newly discovered?) no-hands rest below the upper crux. If you have strong calves, it's a very good rest, at least for your arms. I'd be interested to hear if this was used by previous ascents? Dec 16, 2013

Ted Lanzano
Boulder, CO

5.13d

The original ascents did not use the rest that you mentioned. From the mail slot below the crux, we went up and left to the hueco, got a quick shake, and continued into the crux. I recall looking at that rest out right, but it seemed kind of funky to go over there. Dec 16, 2013

Ben Sachs
Las Vegas, NV

5.13c

Thanks, Ted. It's a bit weird to get into and super strenuous on the calves, but it certainly feels on-route and logical. Once we were shown, it felt silly to avoid it. Seems some people have used it and still thought 13d though, so who knows? There are at least 4 potentially no-hands rests on the route, yet it's still very possible to pump off the top moves.... Dec 16, 2013

Train4life
Boulder, CO

5.13d

I have not climbed this route...but wanted to write a quick note on the hilarity of "Boulder 12d"! and to thank you for putting that! :) Thanks for making that joke, and I agree with it that this route is prob. a 12a, maybe just maybe, in Eldorado Canyon and in Rilfe!!! Thanks for the laugh! Feb 9, 2014

Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO

5.13c

Well said, Matt! With a little over a year and a lot of effort, I finally sent. The experience I had will stick with me forever. I shed blood, sweat, and tears on this route, and clipping chains on this beast was truly one of the proudest accomplishments of my entire life. Thanks for putting in such a proud line, your vision, your words of wisdom, and the unforgettable year long experience you gave me while I worked it. I will never forget it.... Mar 10, 2014

Elliott Bates

5.13c

I agree with Ben in that once you know the rest out right is there, it's silly not to use it.... It's one simple (not-awkward) move to get in, and once you're in, you can get it all back, hence my grade. With or without the rest, it's an incredible rock climb and by far the best I've done in the Flatties. Thanks to Pinklebear and Ted for your efforts! Mar 26, 2014

Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO

Yes, the evolve of the grade for a given climb.
As a FA, I usually propose with two letters like 5.11c/d for example.
Pick you own letter as you wish. Everybody is happy. Apr 27, 2014

Tank Evans

5.13b/c

I went up and climbed this again with the newly-found rests. Kind of a bummer that they are there, because it really chops up what was formerly a great endurance route, but the no-hands before the crux definitely makes sense. The flakes are such choss.... May 4, 2014

Rob Eison
Denver, CO

5.13c

Tank and Elliott are correct in their grade assessment. The rest features to the right between bolts 9 and 11 lower the difficulty by at least a letter grade. The stem out right before the upper crux makes sense, but I'd be wary of the jugs being used below to the right between bolts 9 and 10. This is a surfboard-sized feature of dubious integrity, hollow and fractured in places with some flex on the lower right panel. Remember that Matt and Ted did not clean this band of rock, thus use it at your own (and your belayer's) risk. May 15, 2014

Flatirons Climbing Council

As you may have seen, there is a new trail to access the south side of Seal Rock. From the base of the east face, the new trail goes southeast about 200' and then cuts back up west to the crag. You can't miss the sign. It may take a minute or so longer, but it's far more sustainable, scenic, and pleasant than the former trail. Please dont use the old social trail that went straight up the hillside. A big thanks to OSMP and the volunteers who made this new trail possible! Nov 29, 2014

topher donahue
Nederland, CO

Thanks to whoever removed the sketchy and tempting choss flakes to the right of the first crux. Apr 25, 2016

Star Pais

Curt and I cleaned it last fall after seeing how much traffic the route was getting and not totally being comfortable whilst belaying on TM and watching people above us yard on it to avoid a crux. It came off relatively easily and in some bone crushing chunks. Oct 6, 2016

Ryan Arment
Boulder, CO

So great! I worked this one into submission, the movement is elegant and intricate. I'm a little worried that every other sport climb in the Front Range is going to feel boring. Apr 25, 2017

michalm

All the bolts have been tightened up on Choose Life. Nov 16, 2018

michalm

Marissa Stephens (sp?), I have your white headband/ear warmer that was left at the base. Message me, so I can get it back to you! Apr 6, 2019

Swavek Gaik
Superior, CO

5.13c

What a fantastic climb! In my case, no other route required as much effort and numbers of attempts, but finally it was all worth it. There are many great rests on this route, and it makes sense to use those before the cruxes. The route is a kneebar paradise. The rock is clean. Classic! May 19, 2020

Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO

5.13c

I thought it'd be pertinent to post this here under the lengthy discussion regarding the grade of this climb: darth-grader.net/Console.

For what it's worth, I input what I thought to be the breakdown of this climb, including my subjective interpretation of the rests on this route, and arrived at a soft 13d/8b. Enjoy! Sep 5, 2022

MauryB
Boulder, CO

The lip of the hueco at the 7th(?) bolt has some cracking. It could be a good candidate for some glue reinforcement before it's lost. Mar 30, 2023