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Routes in Cedar Park Slab
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Slab Ants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dags in Beanland T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whetstone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bernard & Sally Gillett '93 |
| Page Views: | 3,151 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Aug 17, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Whetstone follows most of the route 'Dags in Beanland', so check that for beta. It only differs in the second pitch.
P2) Start the same as Dags in Beanland's second pitch, but traverse right with crack systems to the large left-facing dihedral. Also, a traverse could be made up higher, after clipping the first 3 bolts, then diagonaling to the roof, and hand traversing the underclings to the dihedral. Pull through the tricky roof, then head up easy cracks to another hand traverse left to the bolted anchors for Dags.
This variation of Dags is very good, and it is probably the only option after a heavy day of rain. We chose it because the water streak that Dags climbs was soaked.
P2) Start the same as Dags in Beanland's second pitch, but traverse right with crack systems to the large left-facing dihedral. Also, a traverse could be made up higher, after clipping the first 3 bolts, then diagonaling to the roof, and hand traversing the underclings to the dihedral. Pull through the tricky roof, then head up easy cracks to another hand traverse left to the bolted anchors for Dags.
This variation of Dags is very good, and it is probably the only option after a heavy day of rain. We chose it because the water streak that Dags climbs was soaked.
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