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Aliens Ate My Penis
5.11b/c YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2 from 4
votes
Routes in Cactus Rose Cliff
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Child's Play S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Omen, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Raising Arizona S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Arizona Rising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vapor Trails S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack to Black S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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End Of The Line S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Welcome To The Machine S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mark Finds Bob Bolting S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sweat Hog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Luck of the Draw S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shelf Rose S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tornado of Souls S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Needle Lies, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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How Ed Lost His Mind S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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John Wayne Never Wore Boxer Shorts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Where the River Flows S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bachar Up Against The Wall And Kauk Him S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sticks and Stone May Break My Bones, but Whips and Chains Excite Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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E=mc^2 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cactus Rose S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Barbecueing Traditions S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Alligator Ed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Old School Skills S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Calm Before the Storm S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Rolling Thunder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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No Techno S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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In Too Deep S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Squeezebox S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cowboy's Delight S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feather's Edge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Feathers Ledge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stairway to Seven S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sin Wagon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Maiden's Milk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Whisper of Immortality S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Aliens Ate My Penis S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Paper Bondage S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Handsome Alien S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Munchkins on Parade S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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[Redacted] S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Take The Skinheads Bowling S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bald Headed Neocons S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Little Boys With Power Toys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hell Raiser S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pigs in Bondage S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Hell Razors S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,599 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Aug 8, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This route is approximately 1000 feet right (west) of the cactus Rose Wall proper. As you hike along the trail west of CRW, you will pass approximately 4 scattered routes and then come to a short wall that is facing towards the approximate east. This wall is slightly pinkish and there are 3 routes on the wall. One goes up the left/middle face, two goes up the right hand margin to a small roof, three starts around the right side and goes straight through the roof. 'Aliens Ate My Penis' is route one, the leftmost of the three.
This route is like a tall bolted boulder problem. The opening moves give you a taste of what the entire route is like - slightly overhanging with many small holds to choose from. There are several really good pockets on this route, but it takes patience or luck to get them all. Many of the holds are quite sharp. I actually thought that taking the pain was the biggest crux, given that my fingers are kind of soft right now. All in all, a fun route that gives strenuous, technical climbing.
Either lower off of the last bolt, or top out and scramble over the little fin and down the chimney to the west.
This route is like a tall bolted boulder problem. The opening moves give you a taste of what the entire route is like - slightly overhanging with many small holds to choose from. There are several really good pockets on this route, but it takes patience or luck to get them all. Many of the holds are quite sharp. I actually thought that taking the pain was the biggest crux, given that my fingers are kind of soft right now. All in all, a fun route that gives strenuous, technical climbing.
Either lower off of the last bolt, or top out and scramble over the little fin and down the chimney to the west.
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