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Routes in North Face/Ridge
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Cable Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Ex-Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Keyhole Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Mary's Ledges T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Northwest Gully T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Webb's Walk-up T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,548 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | David Neckels on Jul 23, 2003 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Climb the Keyhole route to the Keyhole. Continue on halfway to the Trough. Just as the route starts to drop, there is a gully that shoots upward from the ledges toward the Keyhole Ridge. Be careful as there is an earlier gully that will not take you high enough.
Ascend this gully. The difficulties are mostly class 4 for about 800 feet or so. Watch as the hundreds of people on the keyhold route drop away and you are left solo. Be especially careful not to dislodge any of the loose rock, as it will go right across the path of people on the ledges.
Finally easy passage is blocked by a 50 foot cliff. Go up the right side and then cross to the left on an easy ledge system. You are now at the base of the technical pitch.Thirty feet of 5.2 rock rises above you, but it is likely to be covered in water, so it will be harder that this. Climb halfway up and you have the choice of either climbing under a huge boulder and out the top or going back out over the cliff face and making a difficult move to reach easier ground.
From above the cliff, the route goes on easy rock to reach the Keyhole Ridge just above the technical parts of that route. Follow the summit ridge (a spectacular and narrow ridge) 150 yards to the summit. Revel in the fact that everyone on the mountain can see you traverse up this unusual finish.
Ascend this gully. The difficulties are mostly class 4 for about 800 feet or so. Watch as the hundreds of people on the keyhold route drop away and you are left solo. Be especially careful not to dislodge any of the loose rock, as it will go right across the path of people on the ledges.
Finally easy passage is blocked by a 50 foot cliff. Go up the right side and then cross to the left on an easy ledge system. You are now at the base of the technical pitch.Thirty feet of 5.2 rock rises above you, but it is likely to be covered in water, so it will be harder that this. Climb halfway up and you have the choice of either climbing under a huge boulder and out the top or going back out over the cliff face and making a difficult move to reach easier ground.
From above the cliff, the route goes on easy rock to reach the Keyhole Ridge just above the technical parts of that route. Follow the summit ridge (a spectacular and narrow ridge) 150 yards to the summit. Revel in the fact that everyone on the mountain can see you traverse up this unusual finish.
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