PRINT: Rock Climb Under the Big Top, Lumpy Ridge

Under the Big Top

5.9, , 250 ft (76 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Kimball & Harrison, 1980
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Sundance Buttress

Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 Details

From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.

Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.

Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.

Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Access Issue: Sundance Buttress is no longer closed as of Spring 2025 Details

Per Ellen S: Sundance is no longer closed. See nps.gov/romo/upload/Lumpy-R….

2019 Seasonal closures are in place. Check with Backcountry Office (970-586-1242).

RMNP
6/12/15

K.Patterson 970-586-1363

Sundance Buttress Closure Added Other Closures Removed Or Continued
To Protect Nesting Raptors in RMNP

Each yr to protect raptor nesting sites, RMNP officials initiate temporary closures in the Lumpy Ridge & Sheep Mountain areas of the park. To enable wildlife managers to gather info and ensure that raptors can nest undisturbed, specific areas within the park are closed temporarily to public use during nesting season.

Due to raptor nesting activity, Sundance Buttress in the Lumpy Ridge area has been added to the closure areas. The following sites will remain temporarily closed until further notice - Alligator Rock, Twin Owls, Rock One, Sheep Mountain, & now Sundance Buttress. These closures include all climbing, approach and descent routes for the indicated formations on all sides of those formations.

The following closures have been lifted - Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Thunder Buttress, No Name and Parish. The National Park Service is committed to preserving birds of prey. The same cliffs that attract raptors also appeal to climbers. The cooperation of climbing organizations and individuals is essential to the successful nesting of raptors in the park.

Kyle Patterson
Public Information Officer/Management Specialist
RMNP
(970) 586-1363 nps.gov/romo facebook.com/RockyNPS

Description

This climb is a variation to Turnkorner and as such the grade and rating, which apply only to the pitches that are unique to UTBT, are misleading. This climb traverses in from the right and joins TK at the start of its first 5.10 pitch. In conjuction w/ TK this climb is two stars, is rated the same as TK and is about a pitch longer than TK.

This seldom traveled variation is not quite as enjoyable as the pitches of TK it replaces, but is arguably more interesting . It is worth doing if you want to repeat the crux (wide) ptiches of TK or another party got to TK just ahead of you and you don't feel like hanging out on the ground while they climb.

This climb starts just to the right of the huge boulder which leans against the base of Sundance. (TK starts just to the left of this boulder.)

P1. 5.8+, 120'. Climb the crack/groove for about 40' until it forks. Take the left fork, belaying at a mediocre stance at about the same level as some rap slings which are on another route about 30' to the right. A pretty good pitch.

P2. 5.9, 80'. Traverse left about 15' (easy, no pro) to the base of a right facing, right leaning handing corner. Ascend the corner (5.9, good pro, long slings required on lower pieces) for about 20' to a stance. Easily follow an obvious weakness up and left past some bushes. Pass a small roof and belay above this, at a stance below a larger roof with a fixed sling. It is tempting to link P1 and P2, or at least lengthen P1, but doing so is an invitation to hideous rope drag at the hardest moves.

P3. 5.9, 100'. Traverse left about 20' on face holds with scant pro to the base of a thin crack (~5.7). (This crack is visible from the ground.) Some sweet moves lead up the fingery crack (easy 5.9) Veer slightly right as the crack eases. Where the crack ends at the top of a pillar, head left to a cluster of slings and pins, below the formidable Icarus roof, next to which Turnkorner looks like a sport climb; this belay deserves a place in the Birdshit Hall of Fame.

P4. 5.7, 30' Traverse left, not hard, but little pro, to TK belay, just below its first 5.10 section.

Continue up Turnkorner.

Protection

Turnkorner rack. We had double 1-4 Rocks and single 5-7 Rocks and used them all. RPs are not required.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Under Babylon," 5.10+ start mentioned by Scott Kimball in the comments. A superb pitch of climbing.

After the crux comes 'the business'. The section just above Dave's head is where you want to move right out of the chimney and on to face for a few moves before heading back into it. Keep right sid…

Starting the Turnkorner technical crux.

Dave on the pitch 3 traverse.

Dave on the first pitch. It looks like the crack right above his head is the way to go, but you actually step across to the left hand crack.

Heading toward Sundance.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

S. Kimball

D.Snively,J.Belser and myself did a direct start to "Under the Big Top"aka:"Under Babylon" 5.10+.Start up "Idiot Wind"/ leftmost of the Nose variations ,then cut left up a thin crack and foot traverse.Bridge past a 3/8thby2.25in. stainless steel bolt and a bulge to a fine finger /hand crack Belay at fixed slings on "Precipitation".Definately an upgrade to this big time adventure. Aug 29, 2004

S. Kimball

Pitch #1 as David describes is "Precipitation".Definately 5.9 and better to belay on "Precipitation's" fixed slings. Aug 31, 2004