PRINT: Rock Climb The G.Y. Dihedral, Eldorado Canyon State Park

The G.Y. Dihedral

5.8, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),

Avg: 0.6 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Wind Tower > Wind Tower - SW Face

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is a route that is probably best avoided. Climb the first pitch of Calypso Direct (5.8) or Tagger (5.10c) to a large pine tree and 2-bolt anchor. From here, head up and gradually right to a right-facing dihedral. Climb the lichen-encrusted corner with poor pro that no one ever climbs to gain the walk-off ledge. [Although Tagger is 10c, climbing the first pitch to the pine tree (start for GY) is 5.9]

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the location of the new bolted rappel anchor.

Kat A. follows up going left past the shrub on G.Y. Dihedral.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO

Agreed with the lichen part. We climbed this yesterday and my partner decided to back off on the lichen encrusted corner and lead right through the notch (Tigger?).

On toprope I found this to be a reasonable 5.8. But in the crux (stemming ontop of the flake) I found it to be a bit slabby and licheny. Additionally, while you can get solid gear in under the flake, there is no gear above the critical move so its pretty unprotected.

At the top of the dihedral there is a bush to surmount adding to the adventure. All in all not a bad climb (if youre following it :-) but a hairy lead) Apr 23, 2008

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.8

This thing is such a prominent feature, yet it gets almost no traffic. I cleaned the lichen off of it years ago... and to a small degree, again today. Perhaps since it is not for the squeamish if you are only leading 5.8. You could take a big fall from the crux if your small/marginal gear there failed.
There are good holds on the arete to the left of the bush, so go left there and back. Mar 4, 2013